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[cadillactaste]

Our Nibbles is 8 weeks old...but by calculations...and the date given to us to pick up the other one who isn't weened yet...he'll only 6 weeks old. Should we wait a little longer or will he be fine coming home at that age?

[VenusTheChin]

Chins are weaned at 6-8 weeks of age and then many breeders keep them for a week or two so see how the do without the mother.

[cadillactaste]

Chins are weaned at 6-8 weeks of age and then many breeders keep them for a week or two so see how the do without the mother.

Hugh...Well I know our little guy we picked up Saturday was born 2-13-2009 And the little guy we're to get was born 3-12-2009 and we're allowed to get him on the 23rd or maybe it was the 28th...of this month. He'll barely be weened... I wonder if we should wait a bit...they will allow no more than 2 weeks after they are weened to be held there.

[ABC Chinchillas]

I wean mine at 8 weeks and hold them atleast a week past that

[cadillactaste]

I wean mine at 8 weeks and hold them atleast a week past that

  Thanks...I may just speak to the breeder and let him know I'm not comfortable with taking him so early...though...he gave my husband the date not I...He may have gotten it wrong...he may have asked when would it be weaned...and he assumed that would be when we pick him up...not quite sure now that I think about it...

[Debbie.nl.ca]

I wean mine at 8 weeks and hold them at least a week past that

Ditto, if they are going to a home that already have a chin/chins I have let them go at 8 weeks. Much depends on the kit and how he's doing.

[Jo Ann]

   7 weeks old (if they are good and healthy) is when they are removed from momma, I like to keep them at least a week or two longer to see how they will do on their own.  So, to leave going to a new home 8 or 9 weeks old.

By US law, they can not be sold until they are 7 weeks of age, if I am remembering correctly.

If they are not a good weight, they stay with their mom until they are getting along good, then 2 or 3 more weeks with me before being adopted. 

There are some, that I never allow to be adopted.  I will not adopt out a preemie ... Preemies often have other unseen problems that will show up as they grow up and sometimes do not make it to their first birthday ... I will not push that possibility off on anyone.

   Jo Ann

[cadillactaste]

  Hugh...He has us picking him up at 6 weeks old...from what my husband says...His website says no longer than two weeks after they are weaned. Think I should email him and say I wish to wait until he's 8 weeks then?

Also...I'm considering putting a deposit down...for his "next" mosaic male...Though at what age...is it then not a good idea to bring another one in? I mean...I've gotten a HUGE cage...with that Ferret Nation cage of ours...Is there a cut off limit you think...if I don't get a mosaic by then...that I say...that's it...and scratch the idea?

[Jo Ann]

    Each breeder is different.  I just mentioned the rules I go by.  You need to discus it with the breeder.  It is your chin, you are the one paying for it.  He's the breeder and he has his own set of rules.  What is decided on is strictly between you and the breeder.

Number of chins in a cage?  That depends on the size of the cage. 

Will they all be males, or a mix of males and females?

No two chinchillas are guaranteed to get along ... regardless of sex, or color, or age ... each time you add a chin to the cage/group, you are building the odds against you of keeping all of them friendly. ... Just my opinion.

    Jo Ann

[cadillactaste]

They would have been all males...I don't need to become a breeder with a breeder in the next town. But love the color of the mosaics...and he has none available at the time.

I just measured our cage...without the bottom shelf...and just actual cage measurements that is occupied by chins makes it 3'Wide x 2'Deep x 4'High...But your comment...

each time you add a chin to the cage/group, you are building the odds against you of keeping all of them friendly.

I don't wish to put any of the chins at risk of them not getting along...I'll just have to scratch the idea of having a mosaic. I do love the Violet coloring...I'll have to be content with that. And I'm curious how our standard will turn out. He was so tiny when we seen him...and it was really hard to get a grasp of his true self...I've seen so many standard greys that vary in looks...that I'm curious what the guy will look like when we get him the weaned one that is.

I'll have to contact the breeder about what my husband felt he said...for he could be WAY off on what was actually said...As to when our other little fella comes home.

[Jo Ann]

    That's a nice size cage.  There is enough room for 3 or 4 chins that are friendly with each other. 

Quote
each time you add a chin to the cage/group, you are building the odds against you of keeping all of them friendly.

I don't wish to put any of the chins at risk of them not getting along...I'll just have to scratch the idea of having a mosaic. I do love the Violet coloring...I'll have to be content with that.

I was not saying it would be impossible to add one or two without having to worry about them fighting.   Most chins will get along with other chins ... but ... they each have their own personality ... sometimes personalities can conflict ... when that happens, you have to be prepaired for it. 

The new kit you have yet to pick up could have a personality that could conflict with the one you already have now. 

I'm sure you have heard "introduction methods" and "introduction time" mentioned on the forum or other places.  The possible conflict between two or more chinchillas is the reason for the introduction period ... to make sure they will get along in the same cage.   

Some get along instantly, for some it takes time, some tend to just ignore each other, while some will fight.  This can happen between any two chinchillas.  Same as with people ... haven't you met someone you instantly did not like, but did not know why?  That was a personality conflict.  This can happen with chinchillas, also.

I believe there is a post on here where a person has 3 chinchillas ... one chinchilla gets along with both of the other chins, but the other two do not get along with each other ... so the one gets to play with both individually, while the two that do not like each other never get to play together.   

That's why I always advise people to get the chins at the same time and let the breeder put them together before you pick them up.  I have done that many times.

I would not put the idea out of my head of getting a mosaic, just be prepaired (with an extra cage ... a small, hopefully temporary one) in case they do not get along.  It would be a good idea to have this extra cage handy when you bring this new standard kit home.  Chinchillas need time to get use to each other.

   Jo Ann

[cadillactaste]

Our carrier is a small hamster cage...with handles...It is not overly large...10" deep x 15" long x 8" high. Could it be used as a temporary one? I sort of feel it's to small. Or should I place the standard below the cage Nibbles is in? Due to me having the cage sectioned off...and my Bass Tray came so now I do have two full size trays...I could house the new fella under Nibbles in the lower part of the cage...but he wouldn't see him  ...And take periods and place him in the smaller cage and sit beside Nibbles cage in view of him.

Then possibly later place that smaller carrier in the cage with Nibbles on the outer area inside his own cage...or is that a bad idea?

Hugh...the breeder hadn't suggested keeping the two together for us...he did have Nibbles with his brother. Which was also a Violet. [We sort of wanted two different colors so we could tell them apart easier in the same cage] But the breeder had all his other kits sold that were the age bracket of our Nibbles. All he had was younger kits that were not weaned yet. For I did ask him when we picked up Nibbles...if he had a Standard that age or around that age that was available. He said no they were all sold other than Nibbles brother. But told us we could take Nibbles home...and wait for the other to become weaned and pick him up later.

So if these two get along...and I open the cage up to it's full 4 ft size...if I would later add a mosaic and he didn't get along...would it be wrong to then close the cages off and have the two who got along...in one half of the cage and the one who didn't get along in the other section...or would the two who got along be upset by smaller quarters and start fighting?

   That's a nice size cage.  There is enough room for 3 or 4 chins that are friendly with each other

It's HUGE! And I'm hearing it from several friends and relatives...about my first theory was to find something small that would be housed in a cage or fish tank [had we got fish] that would fit on my son's dresser. I keep hearing..."That must be some dresser to house such a LARGE cage"...


Then again...I am aware of the one here with the three...and the two get along...and the one doesn't like the other new fella...I feel so bad for that situation...Not sure if I want to put myself in that predicament...Something to later ponder...

[Jo Ann]

 

Our carrier is a small hamster cage...with handles...It is not overly large...10" deep x 15" long x 8" high.

  That's not big enough for a chin to stay in even for a week.

Or should I place the standard below the cage Nibbles is in? Due to me having the cage sectioned off...and my Bass Tray came so now I do have two full size trays...I could house the new fella under Nibbles in the lower part of the cage...but he wouldn't see him     ...And take periods and place him in the smaller cage and sit beside Nibbles cage in view of him.

General rule: 
   If the two sniff each other, snuggle and or play, it's almost definite that they will get along.
       If they just seem to ignore eachother ... they will probably get along eventually.
    If one or both start to bicker or fight ... they will probably never get along. 

Introduction should be done in a 'hands on' manner, rather than just putting one in the cage with the other one.
You can put one in the hamster cage and set it on the floor and put the other one down on the floor to run free ... see how they react to each other ... go from there ...

So if these two get along...and I open the cage up to it's full 4 ft size...if I would later add a mosaic and he didn't get along...would it be wrong to then close the cages off and have the two who got along...in one half of the cage and the one who didn't get along in the other section...

You could do that.  But, it is true that it is better to up-size the cage rather than down-size it. 
Chinchillas get use to having a certain amount of space and like it.  They do not like being in a smaller cage, but can adjust.

...or would the two who got along be upset by smaller quarters and start fighting?

It is doubtful that the two being in smaller quarters would fight for that reason, if they have been getting along in the full size cage.

You should not give up on the idea of a mosaic, just be aware of the possibilities and be prepaired.  As a general rule, the younger they are and the closer they are to the same age, the better the odds are in your favor for them getting along.   Kits are usually like children ... more tolerant than adults.   


    Jo Ann

[cadillactaste]

Thanks JoAnn...I appreciate your advice...Though I really need to stop getting ahead of myself...and make sure my current two get along before I cross that bridge. I do see your side of upgrading to larger cages verses downsizing to a smaller one. The cage we have does allow for a third to be added...But I'm not sure I would go that route...It would be to tall for easy accessibility if you ask me.

I won't rule out a mosaic later down the road...but with our breeder not having any babies...And they are best put together small...I may have to do just that...I will mention to the breeder I'm interested in a male mosaic if one becomes available in the near future...if not...then I'll most likely pass...I don't wish to put a kit in harms way with TWO males that are grown.