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[ahappycamper]

I got a second chinchilla. I was always planning on getting another one for Po but not this early. This deal was just too good to pass up and this was their lasty guy. It was from a nice couple on Craigslist, they were selling babies, a 8 week old beige baby. I brought it home today, it was a rough, hot drive and I think the baby might be under some stress from it. They said he is very tamed and will shoulder ride but I still imagine that he is under a lot of stress. I put him in Po's old cage and I'm going to do a bit of research before I start slowly introducing them to each other but for now I will keep them completely separate. Even though he is supposedly really tamed, I will leave him alone for a day or two, maybe stick my hand in every once in a while so he can get my scent, before actually trying to carry him completey because I'm sure he's just really scared right now. I really want him to ease up to me though and be very comfortable with handling. I love Po a lot but he hates being carried and cuddled around, so hopefully I can teach this new chinchilla to do so. Do you think this is a good idea? Should I also let him have his play time out of the cage so soon?

First thing I noticed is his stool is very soft. I think this might be the stressful ride or maybe he was fed too much alfalfa hay. I will give him Timothy hay though with no pellets until I see that his stools are firmer. If this still doesn't work I will give him some burnt toast.

[Jo Ann]

   Congratulations on your new kit!!!

The soft stools (poop) could be from stress of a new family or leaving it's old family, from the heat, from the ride, but, it could also be from illness.  I would keep them separated until I know for sure. 

It is best to make sure the temperature for a chinchilla stays between 65 and 72.  The hotter it is, the more likely it is that a chin can have a heat stroke.

I give my little ones Alfalfa hay until they are 3 months old, then switch over to 1/2 Alfalfa hay and 1/2 Timothy hay, mixed.  When they turn 6 months old they usually go to strait Timothy hay.   Alfalfa is then used only when he/she is sick or sickly/under weight.  Of course it is better to give the fresher of the hay, regardless of what kind it is ... it often has to depend on what is readily available for some people in their area.   

   Jo Ann

[ahappycamper]

  Congratulations on your new kit!!!

The soft stools (poop) could be from stress of a new family or leaving it's old family, from the heat, from the ride, but, it could also be from illness.  I would keep them separated until I know for sure. 

It is best to make sure the temperature for a chinchilla stays between 65 and 72.  The hotter it is, the more likely it is that a chin can have a heat stroke.

I give my little ones Alfalfa hay until they are 3 months old, then switch over to 1/2 Alfalfa hay and 1/2 Timothy hay, mixed.  When they turn 6 months old they usually go to strait Timothy hay.   Alfalfa is then used only when he/she is sick or sickly/under weight.  Of course it is better to give the fresher of the hay, regardless of what kind it is ... it often has to depend on what is readily available for some people in their area.   

   Jo Ann

His droppings seems to have two pointso n the end, like footballs, like they don't look like perfect ovals with rounded ends like Po's droppings. Now that I think aobut it, his stools when I was holding him at the original owner's house was also very soft. They told me all they fed him was alfalfa, I've completely switched him to Timothy hay but since you were talking about alfalfa only until 6 months old, I will start giving them some of that util 6 months old. He also doesn't seem to be drinking a lot of water. I keep thinking he wants to come out and play. I know you told me in the psat that you wouldn't let a chinchilla come out and play unless they start coming to you at the cage but do you think I should go ahead and take him out of the cage, start handling this baby while he's still young? He keeps poking his nose outside of the bars like he really wants to come out.

Jo Ann, something else I couldn't help notice but my hack saw leaves yellow residue on the pine blocks that I cut up for my chins. The dumb blade is yellow  I will make sure to get a NON colored blade next time, but do you think it is still okay?

[Jo Ann]

    There is probably not a problem, but, let's play it safe ... this is just a precaution, but I have done it with every chinchilla I bring home.  Are the poops watery or do they have any thing that might look like raw eggwhite on them?  You can check this out using a magnifying glass and placing your little one on a solid surface, like a tile floor.  As soon as the poop drops (do NOT pick it up) look at it with the magnifying glass to see if there is a clear coating on it or part of it that looks like raw eggwhite.  If there is, he needs to see a vet to be checked out for Giardia.  Cleanup the area with a good disinfectant. 

   I don't understand why someone would feed their chin, especially a kit, hay only.  They can survive on that and often a vet will put a chin on hay, with no pellets, when they are sick.

Not drinking much water is a bit odd ... you might want to add a little Ocean Spray Cranberry Juice (not Drink), to the water OR better yet, you might think about giving him some goat's milk.  It's a little pricey, but is good for them.  You can feed it to him using a glass eye dropper and/or place about 2 ounces at a time in a second water bottle.  Goat's milk comes in a can, usually found in the store where regular canned milk can be found (or in the baby section).  Once opened, pour the excess goat's milk in a glass container with an airtight lid and store it in the refrigerator.  When feeding it to a kit, it only needs to be room temperature (never warm it in the microwave).  You might want to check out the videos in this article to get some pointers on hand feeding a kit:
http://www.luvnchins.com/ChinsIISignsTrouble.html

I know you told me in the psat that you wouldn't let a chinchilla come out and play unless they start coming to you at the cage but do you think I should go ahead and take him out of the cage, start handling this baby while he's still young? He keeps poking his nose outside of the bars like he really wants to come out.

This was more in reference to older chins.  As far as kits this young, I handle them every day.  I would not "chase him around the cage", but gently corner him and scoop him up with one  hand and cover him with the other, or entice him with a treat, or put his dust bath in and while he is in it, close the end up and take him to an area that would be safe to play in.  Usually the easiest room to chin proof is the bathroom.  Lid down and no standing water in the bath or sink.  No cleaning supplies or toilet brushes in the open area.  Lay on your back or tummy or sit upright quietly and let him come to investigate you ... they are very curious creatures.  Talk to him in a low sweet voice, like one you would use with a baby.  Set a schedule and keep it, he will soon learn when play time is and be waiting at the cage door for you.   

I couldn't help notice but my hack saw leaves yellow residue on the pine blocks that I cut up for my chins. The dumb blade is yellow   I will make sure to get a NON colored blade next time, but do you think it is still okay?

You can get some sandpaper and use it to get the yellow paint off of the wood.  I do not know what kind of paint is used on the different saw blades, so I don't know how safe it would be, but I would not chance it ... just use a little sandpaper to sand it off and it should be good.   

   Jo Ann

[ahappycamper]

   There is probably not a problem, but, let's play it safe ... this is just a precaution, but I have done it with every chinchilla I bring home.  Are the poops watery or do they have any thing that might look like raw eggwhite on them?  You can check this out using a magnifying glass and placing your little one on a solid surface, like a tile floor.  As soon as the poop drops (do NOT pick it up) look at it with the magnifying glass to see if there is a clear coating on it or part of it that looks like raw eggwhite.  If there is, he needs to see a vet to be checked out for Giardia.  Cleanup the area with a good disinfectant. 

   I don't understand why someone would feed their chin, especially a kit, hay only.  They can survive on that and often a vet will put a chin on hay, with no pellets, when they are sick.

Not drinking much water is a bit odd ... you might want to add a little Ocean Spray Cranberry Juice (not Drink), to the water OR better yet, you might think about giving him some goat's milk.  It's a little pricey, but is good for them.  You can feed it to him using a glass eye dropper and/or place about 2 ounces at a time in a second water bottle.  Goat's milk comes in a can, usually found in the store where regular canned milk can be found (or in the baby section).  Once opened, pour the excess goat's milk in a glass container with an airtight lid and store it in the refrigerator.  When feeding it to a kit, it only needs to be room temperature (never warm it in the microwave).  You might want to check out the videos in this article to get some pointers on hand feeding a kit:
http://www.luvnchins.com/ChinsIISignsTrouble.html

I know you told me in the psat that you wouldn't let a chinchilla come out and play unless they start coming to you at the cage but do you think I should go ahead and take him out of the cage, start handling this baby while he's still young? He keeps poking his nose outside of the bars like he really wants to come out.

This was more in reference to older chins.  As far as kits this young, I handle them every day.  I would not "chase him around the cage", but gently corner him and scoop him up with one  hand and cover him with the other, or entice him with a treat, or put his dust bath in and while he is in it, close the end up and take him to an area that would be safe to play in.  Usually the easiest room to chin proof is the bathroom.  Lid down and no standing water in the bath or sink.  No cleaning supplies or toilet brushes in the open area.  Lay on your back or tummy or sit upright quietly and let him come to investigate you ... they are very curious creatures.  Talk to him in a low sweet voice, like one you would use with a baby.  Set a schedule and keep it, he will soon learn when play time is and be waiting at the cage door for you.   

I couldn't help notice but my hack saw leaves yellow residue on the pine blocks that I cut up for my chins. The dumb blade is yellow   I will make sure to get a NON colored blade next time, but do you think it is still okay?

You can get some sandpaper and use it to get the yellow paint off of the wood.  I do not know what kind of paint is used on the different saw blades, so I don't know how safe it would be, but I would not chance it ... just use a little sandpaper to sand it off and it should be good.   

   Jo Ann

Thank you Jo Ann! I will try everything you said. His poops look a bit better, not as mushy, so I'm starting to put him on alfalfa/timothy and then I'll slowly add in some pellets into his diet.

I've been picking him up a lot but he seems to be more interested in running around during play time then coming to me.

My big concern right now is with the water! At first I thought he was drinking a lot of water because the bowl was empty then I realized he just knocked it over! Currently, I can't get another sipper glass bottle for him like I have with Po but maybe I can switch the Po's bottle with the bowl? I'm sure Po won't mind if it's just for a little while until I get a second glass bottle, besides, I think this will get them prepared for each other's scents too when I decide to put them together. I will definitely try your advice though with the goat milk and juice.

He also keep biting the cage bars and sticking his nose through. Po does this as well but this baby does it CONSTANTLY. Like he wants to come out and I feel bad not letting him out when he sticks his nose through and bites the bars every 20 minutes. 

I will continue to update. I am so excited about this baby, I want to do EVERYTHING right. I love Po as well of course but I did get him a bit late, about two years in his life so it was a bit harder to "tame" him, though I still try to do it everyday of course and will share my love equally with the both of them.

[Jo Ann]

    Sounds like you have a very smart as well as loving chin there.     

He also keep biting the cage bars and sticking his nose through. Po does this as well but this baby does it CONSTANTLY. Like he wants to come out and I feel bad not letting him out when he sticks his nose through and bites the bars every 20 minutes. 

You might want to try this ... but if you do, you will have to keep it up and let other family members and friends know what to do when going in the room to see the chins ...    ... We have so many chins that it is hard to give all as much attention as you would like to do.  Sooooo ... my husband, not wanting any one chin to feel left out, started rubbing the chin's noses as he quickly passed each cage, they learned to come to the front of the cage for him to get their noses gently rubbed.   But ... as each would be adopted and go to a new home, the new chin-parents would call and ask why the little ones were constantly sticking their noses through the bars to the point that they were loosing the fur on each side of their noses.  I would tell them to give it a gentle rub and then walk away and they would stop until the next time they came into the room.  In short, by doing so, he was acknowledging each one was special and then they would be happy and go play.

From what you are describing, this little one is one that will want to stay the center of attention!    

    Jo Ann

[Debbie.nl.ca]

Well how cute is he, most my chins can't get their noses through the mesh of my cages.

There is no reason you can't open his door when you see him doing this and see if he wants to come out. By doing so you are training each other on what works for ye.
If he's used to getting his nose rubbed than that's all he'll want. If he wants out make him come to the door.
If he doesn't close it up walk away and try that again next time.
If he does come to you you'll just have to let him out to play   
Then on the times your not going to take him out don't open the door, just rub his nose.

I think this one is very conditionable  LOL is that even a word.

[Cuddles]

....I give my little ones Alfalfa hay until they are 3 months old, then switch over to 1/2 Alfalfa hay and 1/2 Timothy hay, mixed.  When they turn 6 months old they usually go to strait Timothy hay.   Alfalfa is then used only when he/she is sick or sickly/under weight....

Wait, what? Ive been given mine alfalfa cubes since Ive had them (1 year)...uh oh spaghettiO's

[Jo Ann]

....I give my little ones Alfalfa hay until they are 3 months old, then switch over to 1/2 Alfalfa hay and 1/2 Timothy hay, mixed.  When they turn 6 months old they usually go to strait Timothy hay.  Alfalfa is then used only when he/she is sick or sickly/under weight....

Wait, what? Ive been given mine alfalfa cubes since Ive had them (1 year)...uh oh spaghettiO's

   Keep in mind, I used the word "I".   Different breeders/ranchers do different things ... as long as the chins are healthy and happy, then you feed them what you and/or your vet feels is best for them when it comes to hay.  In some areas of the country one or the other may not be readily available, so you would have to use the one that is.  A fresh crisp hay of one kind is always better than old hay of any kind, regardless of which kind it is.  Alfalfa is more fattening, but has more nutrients also ... if you have a chin that is constantly active and not over weight, I would think the alfalfa would still be good, or maybe a mix of the two ... as long as it does not start getting fat.

   Just like some of us humans get over weight because we don't always eat the right stuff OR we may be eating the right stuff, but not getting the amount of exercise we need ... either and/or both things can cause the same thing ... obesity.  It is the same for any animal.  Obesity is not good for any animal, including chinchillas and humans.  I know, at this time, age 60, I am overweight and it is causing problems.  I weighed between 115 and 125 between  ages 16 and 34 years of age, then, over the next 20 years, I had 3 heart attacks, 7 light strokes, spinal surgery, brain surgery, my right shoulder and knee rebuilt and eye cancer.   Not being able to continue to be as active, but still eating the same way ... I slowly added 50 pounds.   Why bring this up?  Because you have to be constantly aware of your chin's age, activity , health and weight to help assure it a long and happy life.

    You often have to go for what works best for you and your chin and/or what is available.  Some people feed meadow hay or coastal hay, regardless of the type, it needs to be available to your chin on a daily basis.   But always use a high quality feed and ample exercise time.  In my opinion that is a must!  No substitutes for either.

   Jo Ann

[Debbie.nl.ca]

Yes just because people from other countries & eat different doesn't mean they are unhealthy either.
Just as we all feed different pellets & hays doesn't mean we're not feeding our chins well.
Mine get loose timothy every day and some days I'll add a mixed hay cube.With their pellets, fresh water and a scattered treat they are happy healthy little fur balls.
I find change to worst when it comes to feeding them.It all shows up in their droppings.