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[ChinChild]

A little background info: Got my very first chin just shy of a week ago  Unfortunately I had only done mild preliminary research before purchasing him (I know, I'm not proud of it) and have since scoured the internet, a few books, and this forum for every scrap of insight into my little fur ball that I could find. We got him from a local pet/feed store, and the employee that helped us was quite knowledgeable about chins & helped us select his cage, food, hay, etc. She said that he was a bit over 6 months & was a male Mosaic. We brought him home, and the first night he was incredibly skittish (understandably) and mostly hid inside his little house; within a day or two, he was allowing us to reach in the cage without freaking out, & would occasionally allow us to lightly stroke his forehead for a few minutes before turning away. Now, he won't even flinch when we stick our hands in the cage & will always allow us to pet him gently, his ears even go back in anticipation & sometimes purrs when he's in a friendly mood  He still refuses to be held yet. We let him out each night for at least an hour, leaving the cage open for him to come & go as he pleases and he always makes pit stops between bouncing off the walls to eat, drink, & typically power nap before coming out for another round! I've never had to chase him back into his cage thanks to this, and when he's tuckered out he always goes back to his cage and crashes on the top shelf for a while.

So, onto my questions!

I've looked extensively into taming/bonding guides, posts etc. and most seem to be based on a treat reward system; I've attempted this, but my lil guy simply doesn't have much interest in treats! It's not an appetite thing, as he eats plenty of his pellets & Timothy hay, and lord knows he poops constantly so he's certainly eating lol; I've tried at least 4 different kinds of treats, both brand name treats from the feed store & little bits of raisin, and he just stares at me like I'm stupid, barely sniffs them. He seems to be getting used to us regardless, but without treat incentives I worry that if I need to lure him into a travel cage (for vet visits, etc) that I won't be able to corral him without scaring him. Any alternatives or advice in this area? Is this an uncommon trait?

I've also noticed that he doesn't nibble on much - at all. I've given him chew blocks, toys, etc and none show any signs of use. When we let him out at night, we give him the run of a quite sizable (chin-proofed!) room, and he hasn't even shown an interest in chewing on any of the furniture or cardboard we use to blockade him from bad areas. Is this something I should be worried about? I read quite a bit about malocclusion, but he shows no other symptoms...he has a healthy appetite, no wetness around the mouth, nose or eyes. I know I'm quite possibly overreacting, I'm just nervous from a lack of experience/knowing that these little guys can be fragile!

And my final concern lies with his visits to the the vet. I haven't taken him yet due to his discomfort with being picked up & not wanting to damage the bonding progress we've already made, but I'm nervous about his health after reading a lot of posts/articles about malocclusion & other problems that are more prevalent in store-bought chins  I wish I'd gone to a breeder instead, but I've already come to love my lil buddy & can't change history now. Anyway, should I wait until he's comfortable being held, or is it pressing that I get him in for a first checkup? I've already located an exotic pet vet with great reviews here locally, and they have 15+ years of experience treating chins.

Thanks in advance for any replies! I know that each chin has a unique personality, however I'm just cautious due to lack of experience & don't want the little one suffering due to my ignorance as an owner 

[GrayRodent]

It sounds like you have a really nice chinchilla that is somewhat used to being around people. I do recommend not letting him out of the cage for a few days. That will help with the bonding process. Chinchillas are usually very stressed after relocation and are not themselves for the first couple of weeks. If there is still no evidence of anything being chewed on in a few days that could be a bad sign. But for now I think this can be attributed to a change of environment including refusal of treats. Some chinchillas are like that and it may take a few more days before he'll accept food from your hand.

As far as bonding I personally don't like to use a lot of treats. An animal that does things for treats usually won't interact with you. What you are doing by taking it slow and handling your chinchilla in stages is how I tamed two different chinchillas both with great success. You can expect that in two or three weeks your chinchilla will be ready to be picked up and held for brief periods of time. Like learning to be touched, learning to be held is yet another process. The chinchilla I have now was from a breeder and was socialized when I got him. It has been almost a year now and I still see improvement in his tameness and that bonding solidified to the point where he is very protective of me. It is a gradual process. I do recommend you let others handle him through the process. Most animals will bond to one person unless they are used to be socialized.

My chinchilla is not allowed to roam anywhere but the bathroom since no other rooms are safe. Any room that allows your chinchilla access to power cords is unsafe. Electrocution death of chinchillas is very common. Ingestion of dangerous things like plastic and poisonous paint is not unheard of. When he does get out I use a fine-meshed fish net to chase and catch him. This is not a good thing for my chinchilla but it my only real option as he usually runs off.

I don't recommend taking your chinchilla to the vet unless you suspect something is wrong. I do recommend weighing him at least once a week and checking his droppings, food and water intake every day. If something is wrong you will typically see a decrease in weight or abnormally wet or dry droppings. If you want to get your chinchilla checked for dental problems I recommend doing that at about 6 months unless there are symptoms. The teeth should be developed enough by then to exhibit problems if they are going to occur. There is a risk though since general anesthesia is required to do the exam.

[Morrigancharm]

If he has not encountered the travel cage before, allow him to play with it during playtime. This will let him become comfortable with it and see it before being put inside. That way he won't associate it as something scary. You can also block the door of his cage with the travel cage, open door to open door, thus allowing him to hop in it himself. It sounds like you have an independent chin. He probably has spent most of his "all of" 6 months in the pet store and has "learned" to be cautious (probably due to multiple reasons). I have used this method several times when I need to put a chin in a carrier cage. By allowing them to inspect it and do it themselves first, they learn to not be frightful of it.

Any checkup at the vet would be recommended for a new pet in the house! Plus the way that certain sicknesses can be genetic in a chinchilla, it would be good for you to know up front if anything is wrong.

It sounds like your bonding process is going well though! Don't worry if he is not interested in treats, that may be a good thing! What other items have you tried to give him for chewing? There are a lot of items that are sold in pet stores that just aren't appropriate or good for chinchillas, it can be very misleading. You are welcome to look at my facebook page for more information. Most of the store bought treats have LOADS of sugar and that is not good for them. It is best to avoid anything with sugar. Chins cannot process it the way other animals can and it can be harmful in the long run. The other kind of chew that chinchillas LOVE is natural wood. It has to be processed to get rid of anything harmful in it (bugs, fungus, etc.) and from the chinchilla safe wood list. When I say processed, I am referring to the scrubbing, boiling, and baking process that is recommended. I am going to post my two lists that I have compiled below. I hope it helps!

Safe Herbs & Treats for Chinchillas
*Although these foods are considered safe, they should be fed in moderation. They shouldn't be used in place of a proper diet of chinchilla pellets and hay. Also, as with people, some chinchillas may not react well to all foods so give new items in small amounts.*

MISC. – Dried apples, papayas, or bananas; goji berries; or uncooked elbow noodles.

**It should be noted that it is more than suspect that milled grains can inhibit the absorption of calcium. Therefore some treats once listed as okay in the past are no longer considered safe: cheerios and shredded wheat, for two. **

BASIL - Basil is responsible for improving the health of an individual. When basil is included in one's diet, the circulatory system is said to function better. Basil is also a good source of vitamin A, which helps to prevent damage to the cells by free radicals.

BEE POLLEN - Bee Pollen is used as an appetite stimulant, for premature aging, gastrointestinal (GI) problems, and contains Vitamins B1, B2, B5, B6, B12, C, D and E.
This is unsafe for pregnant or nursing chinchillas!

CHAMOMILE - Chamomile is often used for sleeplessness; anxiety; and gastrointestinal conditions such as upset stomach, gas, and diarrhea.

RED CLOVER BLOSSOM - Rabbits and guinea pigs enjoy all clovers. Good for chronic skin conditions. High calcium level and a very high Ca:P ratio, with high levels of Vit. A and C. Stimulates nutrition and elimination, dermatological agent, and reduces muscle tension and spasm.
This is unsafe for pregnant or nursing chinchillas!

DANDELION LEAVES & ROOT - Helps calm digestive system, good for soft poops. Not to be fed in large amounts as it can act as a diuretic. Dandelion contains potassium and can act as a diuretic, cholagogue, laxative, anti-rheumatic, and tonic.

SHEPERD'S PURSE - A safe food for rabbits, guinea pigs and chinchillas -Good Ca:P ratio. Uterine stimulant, diuretic, and astringent.

GOJI BERRIES - This is another chinchilla favorite treat! There is natural sugar in these, so please use vary sparingly and do not use on chins with fatty liver disease.

MARSHMALLOW LEAVES, FLOWERS, & ROOTS - Chinchillas like the flower and leaf - it is a rich source of calcium with a high Ca:P ratio and good vitamin C content. Demulcent, expectorant, diuretic, and emollient.

HAWTHORNE BERRIES & LEAVES - One of the most valuable herbs for the heart and circulation. A heart herb from the rose family; stimulates the immune system to fight infection. Helps to prevent heart problems, stimulate appetite and aid digestion, and contains a significant amount of bioflavonoids that enhance the absorption of vitamin C. Hawthorne contains vitamins C and B complex, crataegin, carotene, and have potent antioxidant properties.

HIBISCUS FLOWERS – Contains vitamin C. Used to help sooth a cold and to keep them away. It is also used to help calm nerves, relax the uterus, lower blood pressure, prevents constipation and bladder infection

JASMINE - Used to calm nerves, as an anti-bacterial & anti-viral, and also used for treatment of cancer.

LAVENDER - Used to aid restlessness, insomnia, nervousness, irritability, anxiety, digestive complaints and loss of appetite, intestinal gas, and upset stomach.

ROLLED OATS - Oats contain more soluble fiber than any other grain, and boosts energy. A pinch twice a week is a safe way to treat.

WHOLE OAT TOPS (OAT GROATS) - Oats contain more soluble fiber than any other grain, boosts energy and chins have a ball taking the outer shell off.

OAT STRAW - Well known for lowering cholersterol, this is also a good source of fiber, rich in calcium, iron, phosphorous, B-complex vitamins, vitamin A, C, E, & K, good source of potassium, magnesium, zinc and protein, and is good for energy.

OREGANO - Oregano is a powerful source of many antioxidant vitamins.

PEPPERMINT LEAF - Peppermint is used to treat general digestive problems, colic and to reduce the production of gas in the intestine.

ECHINACEA PURPUREA ROOTS, LEAVES, STEMS, & FLOWERS – Commonly used to fight viral and bacterial infections. It improves the mobility of infection-combating leukocytes. Echinacea is often used as an addition to antibiotics. Also relieves inflammation and pain.

ROSEBUDS & PETALS - Rosebuds and petals are known to help eliminate fatigue, relax the body, and good for skin toning and improving the skin's texture.

ROSEHIPS - Rosehips are high in vitamin C and low in sugar. Vitamin C also aids in the absorption of calcium, which is also good for certain kinds of malo, and strengthens their gums.

ALFALFA - Rich in chlorophyll and vitamin K, which promotes clotting. The leaves and flowers can stimulate the appetite, aid digestion, and increase breast milk.
It is high in protein and should be moderated as a food source for chinchillas.

THYME - Thyme is used as an antiseptic and also used for used for respiratory infections.

CHICKWEED - Safe to feed in small amounts, very high in calcium with a Ca:P of 3:1; anti-rheumatic, vulnerary, emollient, astringent and stops itching.

NETTLE - Good source of protein and iron, high calcium level and good Ca:P ratio; It is an ideal source for convalescent animals - silica source keeps bones and fur in good condition. Astringent, diuretic, and tonic.

PLANTAIN LEAVES - Valuable addition to the green food diet of rabbits, guinea pigs and chinchillas. Valuable healing plants for a range of conditions used both internally and externally. Expectorant, demulcent, astringent, and diuretic.

RASPBERRY LEAVES- High calcium level and a very high Ca:P ratio. They also contain high levels of vitamins A and C. Astringent, tonic, and cooling.

YARROW - Urinary antiseptic which can also be used externally to help heal wounds. Good for young Chinchillas, rabbits and guinea pigs. Good level of calcium and a Ca:P ratio. Diaphoretic, astringent, diuretic, and antiseptic.

FENNEL - Digestive herb relieves heartburn, gas, colic, and an upset stomach. Fennel also increases breast milk. To use as a compress, put crushed seeds in hot water for relief of swollen, tender, nursing breasts.
This is unsafe for pregnant or nursing chinchillas!

OLIVE LEAVES - Contain elenoic acid which is antibacterial, anti-fungal and has anti-viral properties. It combats many strains of viruses, as well as prevention of viral or bacterial pneumonia.  Supports cardiovascular system, reduces inflammation, and helps with immune dysfunction. Contains oleuropein which prevents LDL cholesterol from oxidizing into a form that can form atherosclerotic plaques. The chemical also slightly lowers blood pressure and blood sugar in diabetics.

SUNFLOWER PETALS - Contain vitamin E, betaine, phenolic acids, and choline.  Benefits include protecting against cardiovascular disease.  They are also an antioxidant and anti-carcinogen.


Safe Wood List
When choosing wood for your chinchilla, care is required. Any wood collected to use for chewing should be absolutely pesticide-free, and not treated, glued or painted.   

Collected wood should also be boiled in hot water, and then dried at no less than 300 degrees.

Safe to Use

apple 

arbutus

ash

aspen

bamboo

blackberrry

blackcurrant

cholla

cottonwood

crabapple

dogwood

elm

grapevine

hawthorn

hazelnut

kiwi

magnolia

manzanita

mulberry

pear

pecan

pine - kiln-dried white

poplar

quince

rose hip

sycamore

willow (but not white willow)

 

Not Safe to Use

almond

apricot

beech

birch

black locust

black lotus

blackwood

box elder

buckthorn

cashew

cedar

cherry

chesnut

china berry Chinese snake tree chokeberry

citrus woods - orange, lemon, grapefruit, etc.

cypress

ebony

elderberry

eucalyptus

fir

ginkgo

hemlock

holly

honey locust

hydrangea

juniper

kumquat

laurel

mahogany

mango

manufactured/glued woods like plywood or fiberboard

maple

mesquite

myrtle

nectarine

oak

oleander

peach

pine - fresh, pressure treated, red -- kiln dried is thought to be safe

pinecones

pistachio

plum

redwood

sandalwood

sequoia

spruce

teak

walnut

weeping fig

white willow

yew

[ChinChild]

Thank you both for your thorough responses! I guess I just hadn't given him enough time to acclimatize, he's certainly now starting to chew (primarily on his house) and nibbling a bit on his chew blocks. He's now completely unfazed by us standing up/walking around while he's near, and taken to climbing all over us when we lay down on the floor with him  If he's out and notices us not looking at him, he immediately bolts up to me & sniffs my face or bounces off my shin if I'm standing lol. His true personality is definitely starting to show through, and he's quite the attention hog  I was thinking over what you said about not letting him out as much, GrayRodent, and I'm thinking of using it as an opportunity to try and get him comfortable with being held; I was contemplating opening his 2nd level cage door at the same time each night (the routine time we've already been letting him out), but instead of letting him just wander out on his own, holding my cupped hands in front of it like a platform, so that the only way he can get out is to crawl into them. That way, he'll have to learn to get comfortable with letting me hold him if he wants out for playtime, but he can approach the new experience on his own terms...any thoughts on that particular approach?

Thanks again!

[ChinChild]

Oh and Morrigan, that list of approved treats & treats to avoid was incredibly helpful! Thank you very much, I plan on going shopping this week for some of your suggestions  Gizmo owes you one!

[Morrigancharm]

You are welcome. I sell toys for chinchillas as well that are all homemade by me using wood that I process and other safe chinchilla-loved things. Just copy and paste this code into your address bar to view my items.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/laney3254/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

I also have a Facebook page where I post a lot of information.

http://www.facebook.com/gnomgnomtoysandtreats

[GrayRodent]

One thing that I've found useful for getting a chinchilla used to be handled in addition to playing with them through the door of the cage every day is to close myself up in a shower stall and play with the animal in there in short sessions. There is no getting away from me at all there. At first you don't do much but sit there while the chinchilla jumps and plays on you but as he gets used to that you can start handling him a little more and little more as each day progresses. Over a few weeks time you should see some pretty dramatic changes. If you try to move too fast you will have no progress and a stressed pet but if you move too slow you don't get any progress too. It's all about reading your pet.

[GrayRodent]

One thing I should add is this: You won't get your chinchilla used to being held on its own terms, at least at first in my experience. Which is why your chinchilla needs to like you before you start. These animals instinctively try to get away. It is like a reflex action. It's going to be a fine balancing act full of trial and error at first but it gets easier over a few days as your pet becomes more relaxed. When I trained my chinchillas I usually gave them a treat when I was done as a consolation prize after each session. Chances are you will experience some fur slip so make sure you have a good solid hold. It is good to stablize your pet at the base of the tail and do not allow him to flail around which can cause serious injuries. You might get bit if you try to hold him too long. If you do that's okay because you'll know what the line is and not to cross it again. No matter what happens stay calm and deliberate and make no sudden moves if possible. Make one or two attempts a day and make sure to interact in other ways in between.