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[Mannybilly1030]

hi, i havent been on here for awhile now and only because i had a grandmother pass away from Cancer... yes it was very hard and still kind of getting over it but anyways. i have a chin that has gotten aggressive and scared towards me and the reason why this started was becuase of 4th of july and maybe because i wasnt there to comfort them they were mor scared and orobably didnt like me after that for some reason. so basically what he does is when i stick my hand in the cage he will sometimes charge at me and will bite me and he will run off. or if not he will hop away from me. idk if he is a type of chinchilla that dislikes to be handled but he has let me before but i feel hes scared because he tries to recomfort himself by moving around or by acting crazy and woobling everywhere. from both my boy chins he is the one who is basically the king of the cage and everything. and yea ik i cannot do anything to change that. but my concern is how can i get them to warm up to me again and even better? i really want to do that and dont need them both living in fear. ohh yeah i let them out for play time and one of my chins lets me carry him back in the cage and the (aggresive one) does not AT ALL we have to get him the dust bath but that rarely works. so i have to give him a little piece of cherrio half the size of a pea and he will come to me and ill scoop him up.

but like i said again what do you or anyone recomend on taming them/bonding with them again. need them stress,frightend free.

ohh yea if you any of you seen my post on the health section for chins yes my chin had soft stool and i found the reason why. he loves water vet found no parasites but he said maybe he has a high level of stress and willl take sometime to recover but hes going to be good. he recommended alkaline water actually fights bacterias, viruses. he said to use that if it comes to the case of not having money for meds. and ive done research on it its very healthy other people have given it to there chins and some say it works within a day or 2 some say a week. but yes please comment ways to bond with my chins again.

[GrayRodent]

Some animals have a naturally nervous disposition. This goes for just about any species and that is some individuals make good pets and others don't so if you can't get this one to turn around please don't feel too bad. This is the first time I've ever heard of a rodent that drinks water because it is nervous. It's not uncommon with pet birds though.

I used to have a chinchilla like that and it was one of those rare males that will spray urine (they can't really spray as it just dribbles out) when I cornered him. It took months of working with him before he was manageable. It took some weeks before I was able to pick him up to move him to the dust bath without the threat of getting bit. My strategy was to interact in the cage as much as possible many times a day. I would open the door, give him a piece of raisin, and I would sometimes touch him just by the tip of the nose because that was the only place he'd let me touch him without running off. After several days I would pet him further back on the head and chin and he'd accept that. Then I'd progress towards his back. Then after about three weeks of that I would try to get one hand under his front feet. Then do that for the back feet. After about a month I was able to hold him but only for a second or two and then I'd immediately return him to the cage. This was done about 10 times a day. Then I'd do it in longer increments until he would tolerate it for 20 seconds or more. By the time I had him put to sleep for tooth problems, about 8 months later, I could hold him for about two minutes and pet him. Anything more than that he would threaten to bite. During this time I also took him out of the cage (by letting him run into a container) and sat in a shower stall with him where he couldn't get away from me. I would let him roam around and crawl over me for about 20 minutes a day. Each week I would do more with him so I could pet his head and back and eventually hold him in the stages I described. Chinchillas are trainable but it takes time, experimentation, and great patience. They are some of the most trainable pets I've ever had. He never got very tame but he was manageable and could be handled. My second chinchilla is extremely tame. He will lay across my chest and let me pet him for an hour if I wanted to and come back for more when I try to put him away. He didn't start out that way but he was obtained from a breeder at about 3 months and handled many times a day. No chinchilla will ever be completely stress free. They are hard wired to constantly look for danger but they can be desensitized by frequent handling where you don't get them to the point of being startled, biting, or slipping fur. If those things happen learn from it and try again. Eventually you should succeed.

[Mannybilly1030]

Some animals have a naturally nervous disposition. This goes for just about any species and that is some individuals make good pets and others don't so if you can't get this one to turn around please don't feel too bad. This is the first time I've ever heard of a rodent that drinks water because it is nervous. It's not uncommon with pet birds though.

I used to have a chinchilla like that and it was one of those rare males that will spray urine (they can't really spray as it just dribbles out) when I cornered him. It took months of working with him before he was manageable. It took some weeks before I was able to pick him up to move him to the dust bath without the threat of getting bit. My strategy was to interact in the cage as much as possible many times a day. I would open the door, give him a piece of raisin, and I would sometimes touch him just by the tip of the nose because that was the only place he'd let me touch him without running off. After several days I would pet him further back on the head and chin and he'd except that. Then I'd progress towards his back. Then after about three weeks of that I would try to get one hand under his front feet. Then do that for the back feet. After about a month I was able to hold him but only for a second or two and then I'd immediately return him to the cage. This was done about 10 times a day. Then I'd do it in longer increments until he would tolerate it for 20 seconds or more. By the time I had him put to sleep for tooth problems, about 8 months later, I could hold him for about two minutes and pet him. Anything more than that he would threaten to bite. During this time I also took him out of the cage (by letting him run into a container) and sat in a shower stall with him where he couldn't get away from me. I would let him roam around and crawl over me for about 20 minutes a day. Each week I would do more with him so I could pet his head and back and eventually hold him in the stages I described. Chinchillas are trainable but it takes time, experimentation, and great patience. They are some of the most trainable pets I've ever had. He never got very tame but he was manageable and could be handled. My second chinchilla is extremely tame. He will lay across my chest and let me pet him for an hour if I wanted to and come back for more when I try to put him away. He didn't start out that way but he was obtained from a breeder at about 3 months and handled many times a day. No chinchilla will ever be completely stress free. They are hard wired to constantly look for danger but they can be desensitized by frequent handling where you don't get them to the point of being startled, biting, or slipping fur. If those things happen learn from it and try again. Eventually you should succeed.

thank you so much its working slowly and im having progress. he is smelling my finger and eating from my hand now but he doesn't want me carring him or moving him so my other chin can eat to

[GrayRodent]

In general chinchillas don't like to be picked up and held. They are very sensitive especially when you come down on their back or from behind. They are designed to evade predators such as eagles and foxes and will try to thrash around if they are restrained. If they do it's important they are not allowed to do that as they can seriously injure themselves, especially if it happens inside of the cage.

I've found in my pet, Kulu, that after he was conditioned and then accustomed to being held and handled that there are times when he will jump into my hands because he craves the attention. Like any animal they won't always be in the mood for doing that so usually you have to be the one that initiates it. It is very helpful to learn how to read animals and be observant.

[Mannybilly1030]

In general chinchillas don't like to be picked up and held. They are very sensitive especially when you come down on their back or from behind. They are designed to evade predators such as eagles and foxes and will try to thrash around if they are restrained. If they do it's important they are not allowed to do that as they can seriously injure themselves, especially if it happens inside of the cage.

I've found in my pet, Kulu, that after he was conditioned and then accustomed to being held and handled that there are times when he will jump into my hands because he craves the attention. Like any animal they won't always be in the mood for doing that so usually you have to be the one that initiates it. It is very helpful to learn how to read animals and be observant.

sorry i havent replied and yea he doesnt not like it at all but since last friday hes been hoping on my hand and i can pick him up. bufor only a little bit before he starts figiting around (i dont know if i spelled that right)

[GrayRodent]

That's part of the process. Figure out how long it gets to that point where your chinchilla starts fighting you and try to avoid reaching it. As you take him out for brief periods of time every day you'll find eventually he'll stay calmer longer. You should be able to get to the point where you can carry him to the bathroom for a dust bath or put him in a travel cage to weigh him.