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[LucyCaitlyn]

Hi,
   All being well my new Kit arrives 22/23rd Feb, so these are the things I need to resolve before then.
This is the cage I bought AVENTURA Tall ALL METAL CHEWPROOF Rat Ferret Chinchilla Degu Large Cage 1152 http://r.ebay.com/ERbCSA
I took the metal ladders out straight away. I've covered the hole (using a glass chopping board (new) that covers the hole with a wide margin all round) between the two levels while the Kit is small so that I'm only using the top half for now.
Are the bar spacings ok for a new kit?
There is a built in metal shelf 1/2 way across the cage, 1/2 way up. I've taken this out so I can have wooden shelves and fleece hammocks. Was this a wise move?
I thought it could go back when the little one is older.
How much headroom is needed between shelves?
I have measured the top section of the cage and if I had ledges 6" up from base.
Each shelf being 5" long x 3" wide (deep) with a 6" gap between shelves.
6" above first set of shelves, 5" long shelves, 6" apart filling in gaps of first shelves like brickwork.
I would need 28 shelves to do both ends of cage and 22 shelves to do the 2 sides.
Is this too much shelving? Should I have longer shelves?
I'd have fleece hammocks across the open spaces in the middle which would be accessible from the shelves around the sides.
I'm going to use fleece to cover the metal base pan, what do I stuff it with? I will keep a check on this for chewing.
What recommendations for a water bottle?
I have organic Hyacinth and Sisal mat and a Seagrass mat and ceramic tile and small granite slab to provide different textures to walk on.
I do pottery at Adult Ed and plan to make them a "mountain range" to go on the base of the cage.
It would be a square with entrance/exit holes and ventilation holes.
On top and sides of this base would be something that looks like half coconut shells (though bigger, to accommodate an adult Chinchilla) most turned so that the opening is on base, though some turned up so they could be curled up in. All would have plenty of ventilation holes.
They would be joined together, including piled on top of each other but leaving nooks and crannies, for littles paws to reach into.
All glazed in Human safe glaze that can go in microwave/dishwasher.
I want to enrich their play environment as though they were in the wild as far as possible.
For now I have a seagrass cube to use as a house.
I am planning on making houses in pottery class too, 2 so a choice of sleeping places.
Again ventilation holes all around. These would be secured in several places to the cage bars to prevent being hurled around.
I have a variety of safe balls, small shapes that can be safely thrown around. Safe wood disks, logs and sticks of varying thickness in a variety of woods.
Also cardboard tube covered with sisal.
I have a thermometer to check temperature/humidity and an air conditioning unit.
A set of scales with a jug large enough for an adult Chinchilla.
A Pyrex glass bowl as a dust bath and a hay rack for securing to the cage side.
Have I missed anything? Do I need to revise anything?
 I'm having only one Kit because I'm concerned about potential divorce down the road (Chinchilla's not mine, I'm widowed).
I am out for a maximum of 12 hours a week and that only during 8:30 am - 4:00pm so I can be with little one a lot.
Sorry for so many questions and so much detail. I just want to be the very best Chinchilla Mum I can be
__________________

[GrayRodent]

Welcome to the boards. Congrats on your new pet.

1. I took a look at the cage and it looks pretty good. The pan might not be as deep as what you might want it to be. Chinchillas are good at scattering things around. Overall it looks like a good design to me for a cage which is better than what I see most often. It is similar to the cage I have.

2. Good. Ramps are terrible. Also be sure the chinchilla cannot get its teeth around the edge of the glass to break it.

3. A weaned kit should be okay with 1/2" bar spacing.

4. Yes. I think a metal shelf is okay but wood shelving is better. You probably won't use it in the future.

5. I'd have  about 5" inches minimum space between shelves. With my cage I'd have no more than two levels per section. Chinchillas like to jump between shelves.

6. My philosophy of installing shelving is that the ends of the shelves either need to go edge to edge with the bars so there are no gaps, or that the end of the shelf must be a minimum of 5" from the bars on either side. This is a big enough gap to let the animal over the edge without risking injury to itself.

7. 28 shelves sounds very excessive. My ideal setup for a ferret nation cage has no more than three levels of shelves per cage section. Chinchillas like to have space. I do have shelves affixed to the doors. Be very careful with this when closing the doors.

Also fleece is good but be careful as some chinchillas will chew and damage it. If you see that happen remove it and consider your pet incompatible with fleece. Ingestion of fibers is dangerous and can cause bowel obstructions and damage can cause entanglement hazards.

8. People I know that use fleece layer the fleece right over the pan. I also know the risk of skin problems from being in contact with urine is high. Since I don't use fleece I don't know what to say other than watch for trouble and switch to regular white pine bedding if there is a problem. Avoid paper or artificial beddings. These carry a substatial risk of bowel obstruction. In my cage I've built in a false floor, added a grate in one section, and put a puppy pad underneath (they can't get to it) and that is what I consider an ideal setup but it takes some doing to design and build it and it requires periodic maintenance and rebuilding of floor panels.

9. I recommend using a glass water bottle with chinchillas. I also recommend using a gravity fed watering valve as opposed to the ball type if you can find it. I'd rather use a plastic bottle with gravity fed and make a guard for it than have a glass ball type bottle but that is a matter of opinion. Personally I actually use a tube-fed industrial watering system that goes to a glass reservoir but it's kind of experimental. Most chin owners are happy with a regular ball vacuum waterer with a glass bottle. Be sure to check that it dispenses every day. I've been seeing a lot of reports of water bottle failure lately I think from changes in temperature. Just check it each day.

10. I've never heard of using hyacinth with chinchillas. I don't know. Sisal is fine. Granite is good. I have granite and marble. They like to lay on it because it is colder than the wood floor. If you use ceramic make sure they can't get their teeth around it and break it.

11. I have no experience or knowledge of anyone making chinchilla items out of homemade pottery so you're breaking new ground there. Of course material safety is going to be important. Chinchillas chew everything all the time. Fashioning them to ensure you have access to and reach your pets at any time to extricate them is also important. Making sure pieces cannot be broken off by chewing is another important consideration. I expect you've already thought all this through. Most chinchilla owners use wooden huts. I've personally found chinchillas to be more friendly when they don't have a place to hide all of the time and if you reach into a hut with a chinchilla that can initiate unwanted territorial behaviors. If your main goal is to have a very tame animal you play with frequently I recommend not having such things in the cage. That is speaking from experience. If you're not going to have a lot of interaction with your chin a hut or sheltered area is recommended to alleviate stress as they will act and think more like a wild animal. My chinchillas sleep anywhere although they seem to pick two places in their cage where they spend most of their time.

12. Sounds great. Having toys in the cage is nice but I've found that chinchillas are most interested in things they can carry around in their teeth. Hanging toys like treat-k-bob are great. Unlike predatory animals they aren't near as visually oriented or attracted to movement.

13. Definitely have a good scale, good thermometer, dust bath bowl sound fine (I use a sheet metal box). I like to dust in my enclosed shower stall. I'd say a shop vac with the large 2-1/2" hose is very helpful. Hay is terrible to vacuum up. Be careful with hay racks. Make sure they cannot get their head stuck in them. I've heard horror stories. The worst kind is the hay ball. Never use those with chins. I just put my hay on the floor. A lot is wasted but it's safe. My food dishes are the kind used for large parrots that fasten to the bars. You don't want a macaw-sized dish they can crawl into (they'll defecate on their food) but that keeps them from dumping the dishes over which chins are notorious for doing. I also recommend having an exercise wheel. The good ones are expensive but both my chins really like theirs. I recommend the chin-spin wheel by quality cage co. It is 15" and has a solid running track.

14. I actually started with one chinchilla, got another, they barely accepted each other at first and then they had to be separated. Now they live in the two separate levels of the cage and the space is surprisingly adequate for them. Since they are pets that live next to where I work I think it's great having two chinchillas. There's many advantages though to having one. Certainly not all chins are compatible and some can turn on each other and do a lot of damage with little warning.

Hope this helps.

[LucyCaitlyn]

Hi Gray Rodent,
Thanks for the welcome and the lovely informative post.
 1) I read a lot about cages (lots of conflicting advice too). I then measured my available space and went for the cage that most seemed to fit the concensus of opinion, offered the most space for the Chinchilla in the space I had available and was a good buy financially. So it's good to read that I did ok.
 The depth of the pan is a problem as I can see that should I need litter they'll have great fun spreading it through the bars.
My hamster did this until I put acetate over the bars on the outside. To her immense annoyance she can't chew it, it keeps her bedding in and I can still see into her home.
  I know they'll chew it, so it will keep needing to be replaced, (and will need to be removed at front to slide tray out for cleaning) but I'm considering putting the equivalent of skirting boards in untreated kiln dried pine on the outside to heighten the pan depth.
  2) Ok thanks for the heads up on this, If they do start chewing at this I'll use wood instead, and replace it long before they've made a dangerous impression on it.
  3) Thanks for the confirmation on this one, I thought it was ok but better to check.
  4) Once I took it out the whole cage looked so much lighter, brighter and airier! Wood will look so much nicer as well.
     I'm using the shelves on the base to provide extra storage for my bits and pieces and the brackets will have extra holes drilled in and be used in my store cupboard to hold a wooden shelf. Waste not, want not :~)
    5 & 6) Thank you so much for these answers. Trying to get this information has been like finding "hens teeth."
 Now I know my Kit will be safe, thank you.
    7) I was so worried about boredom I went a bit (a lot) over the top on trying to provide activity.
        I'll have as you suggested 3 shelves as a maximum to each half of the cage.
   I've got fleece ready but I will be very vigilant for chewing, I know from reading older posts here that just because they don't doesn't mean they never will.
 One of my 3 year old cats has just started to lick my clothes, something she's never done before. So I know behaviour can change with no warning or apparent reason.
    Your built in floor sounds amazing, would you mind giving tips on how to do something similar?
     I am concerned about urine as I know it can have serious affects, I'm disabled and sadly aware of how much damage a few missed drops can do to human skin.
 I did wonder about a ceramic "litter tray" with kiln dried pine sawdust in it.
I was thinking of having this on little feet with drainage holes. I could check it several times a day and remove urine soaked sawdust. Any thoughts on this?
   9) Thanks for bottle recommendation. I check all my pets water daily, but thanks for the reminder. Do I need a bottle in each half of the cage if only one resident?
 I made my cats a water feature which circulates the water and has grass area and I've found they drink far more than they used too.
   10) The Hyacinth mat came from a recommended Chinchilla supplier so I'm hoping it's ok. My Hamster likes it, she has a small piece she throws in the air as well as a larger piece she sleeps on.
     11) I will be available to have interaction a lot as with my disability I'm home a lot.
 This was my main consideration and concern when I was thinking initially about having a Chin as a pet.
   The play mountain is for the times when I'm not available to play with.
 I would keep an eye out for signs of damage to any ceramic items I make and be sure that they provided instant access to Chin in case of a problem.
 I did something similar for my Sister when she had pet rats. We had no problems with breakages despite a lot of chewing and they seemed to enjoy their ceramic landscape.
I will take note of your comments though and see how my Kit takes to this.
   12) A lot of the bits I have are small/light enough to be thrown or carried around.
 I have removed a wind chime that was near the cage as I was concerned about it looking like a bird of prey. Not sure how good a Chins vision is, but thought even a shadow could cause distress.
 My cats have never been in contact with a real snake in their lives but were terrified of a rubber one, which is why I've been more aware of potential threats for Kit.
   13) Hay rack is a wooden chew toy ~ a cube with holes in (to small for a head) that I'll stuff hay into.
      Thanks for tip on dishes, my hamster tips hers over often!
 I'm going to get a Chin spin when the Kit is a year, I read that before that is dangerous as youngsters have no idea they've overdone it. A bit like me at times lol.

     14) I've had a lot of tooing and froing on this one.
Unless an animal is naturally solitary as in the case of my Hamster, Chameleon, European Eagle Owl or a natural recluse as in a feral cat who chose to move into my home for last 3 years of life.
I've always believed where possible in having same species companionship as well as me.  So my original plan was to have 2 litter mate Chinchilla, after much research though I have come down to having 1.
 Though to be honest I'm still in two minds about 2.
I know Chinchilla live in herds, but with ample space and opportunity to get away. As a human being I know that being in too close proximity escalates niggles to crisis.
 I've been told that each half of my cage is ample for 2 adult Chinchilla.
I have in my own life lived in a bedsit which was deemed big enough for a human being. I now have a 1 bedroom flat but of all my homes I much preferred the space of my 3 bed house.
So my initial issue is, half my cage may be ample for 2 but is it really enough for 10 years of life in the same space? There will be playtime in a Chin safe area but still the majority of life is in a cage.
  I'm also wondering if in fact my half cage is not a bed sit but a 1 bedroomed flat (or more) for 1 Chinchilla. If I did have 2 in the whole cage who got on ok, but down the road wanted a divorce, could I just split the cage up and have 1 Chin in each half?
 I appreciate some Chinchilla like playmates but not roommates.
 I know that I would find it very hard to re home a much loved pet if there was a serious falling out. That said, I really do want to give any creature in my home the best life that it can have. If that means 2 Chinchilla and my emotions being ripped apart 2, 5, 8 years down the road because they won't live in the same house let alone cage. Then I'm the human being, I have to deal with it.   
  I'd really appreciate thoughts and advice on this matter, I have to make a decision by 20th Feb.
 By the way a second similar sized cage or putting 1 Chinchilla in a second room is not an option, due to lack of available living space. 

[mb30]

Hello,

I also reside in the uk and have the same cage as you.

You can find a picture of my cage here:
http://www.chinchillaclub.com/forum/index.php/topic,4986.0.html


It's the last post in the thread. It will give you an idea of how to set things up.

As you are in the uk there are a few websites that are great for chinchilla food/treats/bedding.

Chinchilla2shop for treats and food and wood, galens garden for forage and things of that nature, hammockyhammocks for fleece bedding if you so choose to go that route. I can also point you in the direction of a lady that sells apple wood at a great price.


https://sites.google.com/site/naturalwoodpetstickstoys/


She has an ebay shop as well or you can email her.


This is where i get my shelves from:

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Ranch-House-Cages


Also, google john hopewell for custom made wood dens and he also makes noce carry cages. You should eventually get one for the times when you take your chin to the vet.

I can personally vouche for all of these sites as i use all of them. If you need any other advice feel free to email: uwillmove@yahoo.com


The normal water bottles from pet at home are fine too

[mb30]

Also, sorry if you already know all of these sites! Just giving you a heads up so you will be prepared.

I know my response isn't to your original post.

[LucyCaitlyn]

Hi MB30,

  What gorgeous Chinchilla!

 Many thanks for answering my posts, your post is such a help, seeing the cage set up is great and I've a better idea now of what I'm doing.

I had Chinchilla2shop as that's where I got my hyacinth, seagrass mats and chews/toys.
 I'll def be checking out the others too :~)

  I see you have fleece? on top and to the side of your cage, I wanted to have this but was told anything within 6" could be dragged into the cage.
 I am thinking of printing a backdrop of Andes mountains onto cloth and then putting it on a frame 6" away from the bars. This would make a better view for me through the bars and hopefully give some privacy to Chinchilla.
 Instead of a frame 6" off, having seen yours I'm wondering if I could just have it pulled very taut against the bars so there was nothing to get hold off and drag in?

 I forgot to say I have a cat carrier that I would use for vet visits. It is plastic and I clean it after use with a pet safe anti bacterial cleaner and then steam clean.
 I like it because as well as the metal front door it can be unclipped all round so not reaching in for a frightened pet and it has a petting door in the top. Would this be ok for Chinchilla?

 I was wondering where to get a water bottle, so thanks for this advice too.
 
I really appreciate you saying I can drop you a line with queries, despite vast experience of other creatures most of which were situations where I winged it I'm older, wiser and def more aware of potential pitfalls with this expected little one :~)
 It's great having someone in UK too, as you know what is available.
Just finding a Chinchilla to start with has been a major hurdle :~)

  Looking forward to Chinchilla chatting with you :~)  Do you have other pets? Any problems with ChinChilla being afraid of them?

[GrayRodent]

I wouldn't recommend using a plastic cat carrier. Think of chinchillas like giant rats on steroids when it comes to chewing and cracking things with their teeth. I've had rats and they never chewed like chins. Chins are much more apt to handle and move things around with their mouths as well and. It's a trait in them that I think you'll find to be entertaining as they interact with you. They'll eat and swallow things rats won't which is annoying and dangerous for them. I think you'll find chinchilla minds to have a lot of strangely avian characteristics in them as well considering your work with birds.

[GrayRodent]

For the cage pan here's a link to some more information about my cage and a previous build I did. The first cage was a parrot cage and no permanent modifications were done. Everything was designed to set in. Today the cage is being used for a parrot.

(http://www.chinchillaclub.com/forum/index.php/topic,4091.msg30791/topicseen.html#msg30791) - parrot cage conversion

The FN cage does have a permenent mod where two aluminum rails are inserted to hold up the plastic pan. Above the plastic pan two additional rails are mounted to recieve the wooden floor. The floor is constructed from 12" solid white pine but instead of going all the way accross I created a wooden frame and put it one end. Beneath that frame I stapled 1/2"x1/2" wire mesh. Chinchillas will learn the mesh is suitable to urinate through. With my pets the transition went pretty smooth but there may be some accidents at first.

I wish I had a write-up my FN cage for you but I don't unfortunately. Eventually I will have a full write-up on that but I don't know when that will be.

The frame can be lifted up and out to change the puppy training pad. I do this about once a week. It's advised to change all of the wood out every year. I've been doing that about every two years and just rebuilding the wood parts but the frame part is more fragile and may have to be rebuilt more often. It takes a couple of hours and table saw but it's not that bad. Of course being constructed with staples great care must be taken to ensure it is properly maintained. The wire mesh can be scrubbed and reused.

You had mentioned sawdust for bedding. The only thing I can recommend is kiln dried white pine or aspen chips. I don't think sawdust is safe.

Chinchillas that are well socialized don't stress as easily. They'll get used to wind chime. I do imagine that being around birds of prey would not be good for them though. I also recommend running a fan nearby the first week or two you have your kit (never through the cage but the noise is helpful). This will mask noises and have a soothing effect.

Yes I do know that it is not advisable for kits to have exercise wheels. You should probably wait before putting one in. I waited until my kit grew past 450g.

As far as deciding to have two chinchillas you'll have to work that one through. My two are kind of unusual. They'll play with each other and be okay most of the time but I only let them together supervised. If I leave them overnight (when they are most active) I fear there will be serious problems. They have a history of pulling each other's hair out which is considered a prelude to wounding each other.

Some chinchillas will just try to kill each other at first sight and other (and sometimes succeed in doing that) and othersd will go off the deep end at some random time. Fortunately in most of those cases there are warning signs days or weeks before it happens but the owners don't always catch them until it's too late because they don't understand normal chinchilla behavior.

There is always a risk with two and having seen how they interact I don't see a problem at all with keeping them as solitary animals. Most chinchillas, and this is the thing because it's a gamble, most chinchillas have no problem and will live together through their lifetimes.

If a chinchilla is used to having a cage mate it is more likely to become emotionally attached and sometimes it can be harmful to separate them. Some chinchillas are really bad about that and others don't seem to care at all so a lot will depend on the specific animal. It really becomes a problem if one of them dies from something.

And there's also the issue of quarantine if one of them catches a random respiratory illness and these are often fatal and very contagious. So its a judgment call.

Both my chins live in the same cage but it's a divided two level cage much like yours so they can't get to each other. Perhaps it could be larger but they get a lot of attention during the day and both seem to be quite happy and healthy so I wouldn't rule that out an option.

[LucyCaitlyn]

Hi Grey Rodent,
 I hadn't thought about them chewing the cat carrier, daft as I'm so aware of them not having plastic!
  I'll get a metal carrier, though not one with plastic coating. I've always avoided the metal carriers because of the lack of privacy. The last thing a sick animal needs is to be seen by everyone, but I'm sure I can put a cover over the carrier while we're waiting to go in to see the vet.

   Wow, what an impressive cage set up! And a lovely Chinchilla, it's funny when animals have their own unusual way of sleeping. I used to have a Border Terrier who liked to sleep on his back with one side against furniture or the wall.

    Sawdust was a mistype, should have been shavings, I wouldn't use sawdust because of potential respirotary issues.

    As far as having 2 Chinchilla I've been talking with my best friend and coupled with what you wrote I'm going to go with my gut feeling when I see the kits.
I'll plan for 2,  when the Kits arrive at the pet shop I will look at them and try to see if there are 2 who look to be more closely bonded, or if there appears to be a loner.
 Fingers crossed I pick a same sex pair as I have heard horror stories around neutering :~( 
  I have had pack/herd animals before who only had me and where fine and I'm sure given the time I have at my disposal there won't be a problem this time either.

    I don't have birds of prey now, once I became wheelchair bound I felt it was unfair to them not to be able to fly the places that they were used too and so they went to live with very dear friends of mine on there 23 acre croft on the Isle of Skye.

     I currently share my home with my MPD/DID community, 4 indoor cats, 3 Ragdoll/Siamese x siblings and a Red Tabby girl, who have never shown any interest in other animals except the Crickets my then elderly Chameleon ate.
That said they will never be left unsupervised with the Chinchilla to be on the safe side.
A Havanese/Maltese x who is training to be my Assistance dog and my Syrian Hamster.
 Once the Chinchilla Kit(s) arrive that will be the family completed. 

[mb30]

I do put throws on top of the cages and down the backs of both cages. They are just cheapo fleece blankets i picked up. Also i do use them on the sides depending if the chins seem anxious or not.

Before i covered the top and back i noticed my chinchillas would only go to the top of the cage at night and stay on the bottom during the day. After covering the tops and backs they are 100% less anxious and will freely lay about anywhere in the cage.

Because they are strictly prey animals and only have been in domestication for a very small window of time they can still be very aloof...especially when it comes to things above their heads. Covering the tops especially seemed to make a huge difference. The backs are covered because they are against white walls and i have noticed the chins react to shadows. If they see my shadow, for instance, it was cause them to run and hide. By putting the blankets down the backs it eliminates that issue.

My chins don't chew the blankets. At times i will see a little part dragged through the bars but i just pull it out. They don't seem to actually ingest anything. Also i am very frequently keeping an eye on them so i do notice when they do pull the blanket into the cage.


The water bottles are jusy your normal bottles they sell at pets at home. I've tried the glass bottles but in my experience they aren't as good. The plastic bottles are cheap enough and i replace them every two months or so just to hopefully keep bacteria build-up away.


I was going to tell you this in email because i don't want to come across as advertising other sites on here but there is another forum you should sign up to. It's called chinformative and is a uk forum. It isn't terribly active but there is an amazong reference library that has a wealth of information on all different tipics of chinchilla care. The lady who runs it and who is responsible for the recerence library has i think over 20 years of experience and she is a leading person in this country for chinchilla care. She has even been picked to teach vets about chin care.

It is something you should really take note of and keep bookmarked in case there are ever any health issues.


I have some experience as well if you ever need any advice in a couple different areas of health related issues.

[mb30]

Also...as greyrodent has said...if you choose not to use fleece liners for bedding then white aspen is a good choice. Sawdust isn't for chins as it can cause problems.

Personally i think two chins are better than one but it is best to get two at the same time. Introducing two stranger chinchillas can be a very lengthy process and may never work at all. You will also need two cages to do so.

I had a pair of females and unfortunately they fell out and couldn't be re-introduced. So i bought a baby male for one of the females as she was spayed and very depressed about being alone. I got the male at 4 months old and put him with her the first day we brought him home.(usually you should not do this). My female was so withdrawn and depressed that i took the risk and she instantly took to him as his mother and he instantly took to her.

I felt the risk was worth it because of the state the female was in. Typically this is a very risky situation but she has a wonderful temperment.

I now have two cages and one female on her own but she does not seem to mind at all. She is also very aggressive for a chinchilla and territorial. I have been contemplating on trying to get a kit for her as well but with her it will be very risky so i may just leave her on her own.

But yeah...there is alot to learn...chinchillas are wonderful. Depending where you live in the uk you may want to buy a dehumidifier and a portable air conditooner as well. Especially with the summers becoming increasingly hot. I am in the midlands so both are essential...i would imagine if you are up north an air conditioner wouldn't be a big priority. Make sure not to have your chin in direct sunlight too which you probably know. They can overheat and have heat stroke very quickly

[LucyCaitlyn]

Hi MB30

   Thanks for the info :~)   I plan on getting two from the same litter so won't need to do the introductions. if down the road the worst happens then I'll split the cage in two.
   So glad that your introduction went well, I had something similar with a rescue cat.
She'd had a terrible time and was very aggressive but she totally fell for a kitten I had and totally acted as his Mum. Sadly he had to be put to sleep and she was completely bereft.
 I took a gamble and got her a kitten, 2 years on they are inseperable and she's much better around people too.
   I have an air conditioner from the last horribly hot summer we had, but will have to look into getting a dehumidifyer as well. I live in Kent though was born in the North and spent some years in Solihull.
  I'll definitely cover the top and back of the cage at least and I will keep watch for signs of chewing.

[mb30]

It's all good...the email i gave was a secondary email in case spam bots see this place

If you do use your air conditioning do make sure it isn't blowing on the chins and they have no draft at all no matter what. They have very delicate respitorybsystems.

[GrayRodent]

Lucy I edited your post and removed the email address instead of deleting everything but you can remove the rest if you would like. (Also removed some related posts to clean up the thread) Anyone can edit or remove their own posts here. There is a modify and remove link that appears over your posts.

Our forums are well indexed and it's not always a good thing to have an e-mail address in a post because it may increase your chances of getting spam. No big deal but sadly it's just the nature of the Internet.

[LucyCaitlyn]

Thanks Grey Rodent