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Author Topic: Chinchilla Psychology - Fighting V Playing  (Read 2180 times)

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DoubleChin_Newbie

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Chinchilla Psychology - Fighting V Playing
« on: February 19, 2018, 02:46:54 AM »

wow Chinchilla's are complicated. Having seen them rough housing and mounting I looked up dominance and connecting a few dots I am now trying to work out if one is being bullied or is just acting in the normal submissive way.

The facts
  • 2 male chinchilla's, brothers taken from the same litter after approx 3-4 months
  • They are new pets, we have only had them 9 days (new territory?)
  • We recently replaced their cage because they could escape their first one through the bars. They have been in the new cage 2 nights (more new territory?)

They get long playtime sessions (around 30 mins - 1 hour max) once per day, where they always start timid/cautious, gradually explore and play more, but at around 30-40 minutes suddenly peak in excitement and go crazy
  • Vocal noises: Normally silent, they both start squeaking rhythmically. It's mostly like chirping, which I have read is a "good" noise? There isn't any hard barking or shrieking
  • "Kissing": They touch noses and rub faces
  • Jumping: They jump around each other, directly upwards, and occasionally into/off the walls
  • Chasing: They run around the room far apart - at max speed, then chase each other in small circles
  • Mounting: One repeatedly tries to get on top of the other. The other wriggles free except once when he let it happen
  • Biting: They don't REALLY bite each other near as I can see, but they definitely try to get their mouths around the back of the others neck

Most of this seems playful and happy to me, and initially saw it as them getting comfortable; but...

Warning Signs?
  • 1 of the chinchilla's is notably more timid and less active than the other
  • Although most usually chirp the same way, after the mounting 1 ran to a distance and changed the squeak pattern to a whimper 
  • 1 of the chinchilla's is always first to the food bowl and the other waits, at a distance. I cannot really tell if one is thinner or eating less than the other yet
  • At night, they do jump and bang around the cage, but when we look they either freeze, or appear to be jumping between the floors without bothering each other
  • I don't see any fur around the cage, but one (And it could be because I am looking) seems to have a frayed tail

One really good sign (as far as I know?) is they sleep together; both in the hanging tunnel, or both in the corner with one slightly on top of the other.
What I don't want is to wake up to one having been mauled to death suddenly, or one to be unable to eat out of fear of the other. Let me know if any of you are Chinchilla psychologists. I am not TOO concerned right now, but would love some reassurance from an experienced person.
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DoubleChin_Newbie

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Re: Chinchilla Psychology - Fighting V Playing
« Reply #1 on: February 19, 2018, 05:24:08 AM »

Here is a pic of them in their cage: I'd also appreciate any advice for improving their environment

The cage is new and was very expensive, so I'm saving up again to get them some chew toys. A wheel will come later

You can see here one is resting while the other is up - however when I entered they were both in the corner together
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GrayRodent

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Re: Chinchilla Psychology - Fighting V Playing
« Reply #2 on: February 22, 2018, 10:45:08 PM »

Congrats on having a new cage setup. I really don't want to discourage you at all about your setup. It looks like you've put a lot of effort and time into this, but, there's a few problems and I think you're going to discover them over time.

The first thing that seems off to me is the shelving. Solid shelves are usually not that thin. Your chinchilla is going to chew through these rapidly. If they are laminate board/plywood that is not safe for chinchillas.

The plastic bottom is not usually compatible with chinchillas, however, looking that the bar spacing I think you'll be okay as long the chin doesn't find an edge on the plastic to chew on. If he starts shredding the plastic I encourage you to find a cage that is of all metal construction.

The plastic tunnel probably won't work for you. Chinchillas are notorious for destroying plastic, and it has been known that plastic causes fatalies in chinchilla by obstructing their stomach and intestines. I recommend using a fleece tunnel instead, however, with fleece items some chins will destroy them. If you see that happening cease using fleece in your cage. It is rare but can be hazardous if the items get damaged or fleece is ingested in quantity. I recommend removing this immediately.

The water bottle may be okay. This cage does have unusually narrow bar spacing and that may prevent them from damaging it through the bars. Glass bottles are recommended. My chins chewed through a plastic one before so make sure to check the level each day (with is good practice anyway) in case they get to it.

Make sure they have access to food and water. I did have chins where one did not leave the other one alone, it started losing weight, and I separated them. They were very aggressive. I tried to introduce them again and they started pulling fur and it was coming out in clumps, which is a danger sign. When fur flies it's time to separate them. Years later they are much more ameable towards each other if I put them together in the same space but I'm still going to keep them separate.

Have fun. Looks good otherwise.
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I'm a programmer not a chinchilla breeder. I learn by asking questions just like you.

DoubleChin_Newbie

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Re: Chinchilla Psychology - Fighting V Playing
« Reply #3 on: March 02, 2018, 06:07:20 AM »

Thank you! Yes I am taking this rather seriously - too seriously in my girlfriends opinion ;) - but I read so many do's and dont's that I have become a little paranoid

Thanks again for the advice - I will tweak things when I can and keep watch. Don't worry about the shelves though - They have metal alongside the edge. I didn't know why at first, but I guess it's to make them teeth-proof!
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