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Messages - GrayRodent

Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10] 11 12 ... 183
136
Conformation and Quality / Re: standard or sapphires?
« on: March 19, 2017, 07:18:31 PM »
Congratulations on your new pets. They are beautiful. I'm guessing they are beige. As they age you'll probably notice freckles developing on their ears.

137
Q & A / Re: New chin owner I have a few questions
« on: March 14, 2017, 11:37:11 PM »
Congrats on your new pet. My recommendation is to take is slow and easy for about two weeks and interact mostly inside of the cage. The reasoning behind this is to minimize stress until your chin is accommodated to you. Make sure your pet will come to you if you put your hand or arms into the cage. Also practice holding your chinchilla after a few more days in short sessions. If you have a tame chinchilla it shouldn't be a problem but most chins are going to take a little work. You are probably going to notice some behavioral changes over the week although every chinchilla is different.

I recommend forgoing all treats during this period. Let the digestive system return to normal and establish a routine. Apple slices are fine, just small raisin sized pieces, no more than two a day. I really don't use treats with my pets and give them attention instead and it is fine. My philosophy of chinchilla diet is less is more. A constant supply of clean water, loose hay and high quality pellets is all they really need. Avoid deluxe pelleted diets with mixtures of junk in them as they are devastating to chinchillas.

Dogs are not good for your pet. One wrong move and it's over. I have numerous sob stories I can tell including from my neighbor. I recommend you keep them separate but it is your judgment call with that.

138
Q & A / Re: New Owner. Just checking
« on: March 10, 2017, 08:51:12 PM »
Chinchillas will usually waste a good deal of hay and that's just normal for them. They'll usually leave the dry stalky bits. About every day or two I pull that out and start over with fresh hay. Best practice is to give them enough that they won't run out. Same with pellets. For normal healthy chinchilla food they are self-regulating. The pelleted diet will ensure they are getting enough nutrition.

139
Q & A / Re: New Owner. Just checking
« on: March 07, 2017, 11:47:16 PM »
I'm glad to hear that. If your chinchilla is eating mostly hay I doubt there's a dental problem since pellets are much easier to chew.
If you know horses you're already a step ahead. Chinchillas share a lot of the same personality traits but are not quite as touchy. Definitely use your horse's tim. hay. Be super careful about moisture. It wouldn't be a bad idea to store their portion inside the house from fresh bails.

As far as hay choice use your best judgment. I know there's crazy things that go unchecked so I'm not going to say it can't be that way. I used to feed Kaytee hay and have never had any problems.

140
Q & A / Re: New Owner. Just checking
« on: March 06, 2017, 09:31:55 PM »
Also I'm going to add I don't really advocate for giving chinchillas treats. It can be done safely if you know what you're doing but it's not really doing them any good. And if you suspect there is any problem with your chinchilla do not give treats. Especially do not give treats to get a chinchilla that is not eating to eat. Use an appropriate recovery diet from your vet and and a proper assessment.

141
Q & A / Re: New Owner. Just checking
« on: March 06, 2017, 09:28:24 PM »
Congrats on your new pets. You have certainly come to the right place for information.
There's all kinds of utterly terrible bits of information on the Internet regarding chinchillas and diet.

I can see there's a few things you've got going on that I think you'll want to address.
I'm not too concerned about George but the new chinchilla may need to see veterinarian to have a dental workup and check for liver enlargement/ lipidosis. If both are detected you'll be better off keeping the chins separate because of potential disease.

Chinchillas should be on a diet of plain alfalfa-based pellets plus loose timothy hay. The hay is actually the main diet and the pellets are considered to be supplemental. There are only about 4 or 5 brands that are really proper for them. The best ones are easy to obtain in the US. I'm going to recommend Oxbow Chinchilla Deluxe or Mazuri chinchilla diet. These are time tested feeds that have known to produce very long lived animals. There are others but they come with caveats. TSC will provide Mazuri but you have to special order it. It's a pain but the cost savings are significant for a 25lb bag. And you know you're getting a top quality diet.

Feeds that are a mixture are usually horrible, as in toxic. A chinchilla should live at least 10 years, and with these novelty diets you can't expect much more than 2 or 3. Usually death is from dental malocclusion when it's diagnosed but I think organ failure is a contributor. Chinchillas are prone to lipidosis from oily or fatty diets which have seeds and nuts in them. Sugar is known to cause cavities and you can imagine they'll pick out the sweet garbage, don't get normal wear on teeth, and end up malnourished as well.

Dental problems seem to be the worst for chinchillas. Once they start recovery is very rare, very expensive, requires multiple treatments, and just usually evolves into a sob story and a dead pet. Considering the history behind your new pet I advise getting a dental x-ray and full exam there to make sure you're not dealing with something like that. Lethargy is usually the sign of something very serious but there could be other factors such as its normal routine, as most chinchillas sleep during the day and are most active at night. They can adapt to their owner's schedules though.

As far as relocation stress that is usually a problem that's easily solved. Just avoid a lot of handling for the first two weeks. With any chinchilla that is not well socialized start slow and build up. Read your pet and try to make sure its happy experiences with you outweigh any stress associated with handling.

As far as Timothy hay I really don't think it matters but I know others have arguments to be picky. I'd be surprised if there are additives. If there are it will be listed and I've yet to see that in packaged loose hay. Of course I stay with brands I know such as Oxbow and Standlee.

One thing I have noticed is that moisture can be a problem with hay packaged in plastic and I've learned to open the bag and smell it before I buy it. But lately I've gone to buying large bales and storing the hay in mesh bags because it's so much less expensive. As long as it's green and smells good it's fine.

I'd say find something quickly, doesn't have to be same day or anything, but I think you should change diets soon. I think it might be wise to get a vet exam and keep your pets in separate rooms in case it's something contagious like a respiratory problem. Animals should be kept separate anyway for 3-4 weeks for observation. Because relocation causes stress, an already compromised animal could be in really bad shape. Please be aware of that and make sure you know what's going on.

I'd be glad to ask any questions you have.

142
Q & A / Re: Reptile accessories safe for chins?
« on: March 06, 2017, 12:35:16 PM »
I wouldn't recommend resin, which is essentially plastic. It can be scraped off and chewed.

143
Q & A / Re: Is this product safe for my chinchilla?
« on: February 28, 2017, 11:42:11 AM »
I'm not really concerned about hair rings. Just keep an eye out for damage by chewing. If you see damage it's probably not safe because material can be ingested and cause bowel obstructions, or death by hanging from tattered cloth.
I know I feel like I'm the messenger of doom here. On the light side it looks intriguing and I know chinchillas have done well with woven fleece hammocks and huts. This kind of material is usually not normally used in the construction of chin products.

144
Q & A / Re: Bonding two chinchilla girls with a new chinchilla girl
« on: February 27, 2017, 12:03:18 AM »
It is never a process that is guaranteed to work. Whenever you have more than one chinchilla you must be able to separate them and house them separately. Even after they are bonded they can turn on each other at any time and sometimes with fatal consequences.
For combining I recommend 3 weeks minimum quarantine, make sure the new one is in a separate room and observe for any potentially life-threatening or contagious disease. Most of the time if a chin has anything dangerous, such as a respiratory illness, it will show up after 3-4 weeks.
Then put them in the same room and put the cage about 2 inches apart and wait for two weeks. Then introduce them in a neutral place like a bathtub where you're dusting. (I'd start with two at a time, and observe closely.) If one tries to attack, pulls out hair, draws blood, etc. you know there is no compatibility. Be warned some chins can be so aggressive they will kill with one bite. Make sure this isn't going to happen.
Once together make sure there are at least two food bowls in the cage and keep track of the weight of all three. This is good practice anyway but you might want to weigh every other day to ensure no chinchilla is being denied access to food or getting too stressed. Personally I recommend against this but I know others have had success with 3 and more. It is your call.

145
Q & A / Re: Companion for older chin?
« on: February 20, 2017, 07:58:36 PM »
I'm glad she has her space. Make sure the floors are staggered so she can't fall through clear to the bottom. She will still have plenty of space if you have floors with passages to get through to the other levels. Just today someone was asking me about a chinchilla that is in peril and there is some evidence it fell in its cage. It is your pet and your call concerning what is best.

I'm glad your pet is so friendly and letting you pet it. Chinchillas normally start out shy and fearful of people and it takes a little work for them to get used to it, but if there was any abuse going on she wouldn't be that tame.

It is true chinchillas usually prefer to live alone. They are social creatures but not near as social as cats or dogs but when they are together and getting along it's really fascinating to see them interact.

God bless.

146
Q & A / Re: Companion for older chin?
« on: February 20, 2017, 03:32:02 PM »
As far as being picked up my advice is wait until you've had her for about two weeks and let her get used to her new surroundings. Make sure to give her attention inside of the cage and through the bars of the cage if she's not acting territorial. Then pick her up briefly, hold her against you, just a few seconds, and put her back. Do this 2-3 times a day and you should see gradual improvement over a few weeks. Eventually she may actually jump on your hand because you've established a new pattern. Mine have learned to jump on my hand when I go get them from their dust bath in my bathtub but not always from their cage.

Be careful with multi-level cages. Make sure the floors are staggered so she can't fall from the top to the bottom. Falls can be very dangerous for chins. Good chinchilla foods that I like are Oxbow and Mazuri. Timothy hay is preferred but other grass hays can work just as well.

Pairing chins is not always advisable and doesn't always work. There is always a risk even after chins are paired and bonded they can kill each other. I did try pairing mine and they just were not compatible. It really depends on how each chin gets along and chins can be very different. They live in a two level cage that is sectioned off and there are many advantages to keeping them separate.

Congrats on your pet. I think things will go well for you and sounds like you're already most of the way there.

147
Health / Re: Drug resistance to anesthesia due to frequent detal work
« on: February 19, 2017, 09:22:00 PM »
I hope and pray you'll find what you need. My first thought is wait until the resistance becomes dangerous and then use a different drug. My second thought is use less anesthesia and see how the animal handles it. I know of one chinchilla that just let the vet do the teeth without drugs because it was calm about it. It lived for years from what I've heard. Although such cases are extremely rare.

148
Q & A / Re: Hiding and barking all day....
« on: February 19, 2017, 09:17:35 PM »
One thing that chinchillas like is to interact through the bars and the door of the cage. My chins love to get scratched and poked and messed with. I have a cage with nice big doors too and I'll just stick my head in there and they'll groom my hair.
I have one chin that will run and jump out of the cage so I have to be careful. Mine is on two levels so I can put him on the top level and he's not likely to jump out.
If you just go to the bars, or door and put your hand in there just wait and be still. Chinchillas are naturally curious and when they're awake they explore the cage. If your pet is running from you just be still. Do not approach from above. Start with scratching under their head. Most chins prefer that. Some chins prefer to be rubbed.
Spend a lot of time observing your pet and learning as much as you can.
I advise against using treats as a training aid. It is so easy to overdo them and it can cause humongous digestive complications that can be fatal. I've done this both ways and I've discovered that chins are trainable and usually prefer interaction even if no treats are offered.
Another good training aid is to sit in a bathtub or enclosed shower stall and just observe your pet. Don't do anything but observe, and then try different things. The more your pet gets used to you the more you can do. Eventually you'll be able to handle and hold your chinchilla. Training can take weeks. Do this regularly.
For example my chins are located right next to the doorway out of my room. When I come through the door I'll mess with them breifly, just for about 10-15 seconds. So we're talking 5-6 times a day. Now when I come through the door they'll press up against the bars to get scratched.
Don't expect immediate dramatic changes. You'll see gradual changes over weeks and months.
Always be very careful. I do not advise owners to allow their pets to roam the house.There are many hazards and many horror stories I can tell. If you insist, though, your worst hazards are getting stepped on and closed in doors, and electrocution from chewing electrical power cords. Your chins do not need to spend hours outside of their cage every day, and will be probably be friendlier and less flighty if they do not.

149
Health / Re: My Chin girl was diagnosed with diabetic
« on: February 18, 2017, 09:43:19 AM »
That's great. Thanks for sharing.

150
Health / Re: Drug resistance to anesthesia due to frequent detal work
« on: February 18, 2017, 09:40:06 AM »
I've never heard of that before. Most veterinarians use isofluorane. Usually chinchillas with that kind of condition (malocclusion) will get worse and typically succumb to other complications.

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