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1

Q & A / Re: Good vacuum for chin cleanup?

« on: December 05, 2013, 12:30:59 PM »

    To unclog a vacuumcleaner .... first try putting your hand over the nozzle ... sometimes this extra suction caused by blocking the opening, will force it to unclog and suck the debris into the trash section of the vaccumcleaner.   

IF that does not work ... turn the unit off and gently tap the hose on the inside of your trash container to try to jar what is clogging it up loose.
 
IF that does not work, place your vacuum cleaner outside and connect the hose to the exhaust, instead of it's normal suction connection ... while holding the nozzle away from you (and anyone/thing else that might be around), turn the vacuum cleaner back on ... this should blow the clog (and lots of extra dirt and dust) out the other end. (This is why you do it outside the house, not inside the home.)

IF that does not work, try to gently, but firmly, to push it out or break up the clog with the use of a broom or mop handle ... caution: this last action could damage the hose if you do not do it properly, so be careful or let someone else try it for you.   

A replacement vacuum cleaner ... hummmmmmmmmm ... I use a Shop-Vac ... they work wonders for cleaning up after chins, kids and messy people.       They are also able to clean up liquid spills.   

When you empty a vacuum cleaner, regardless of the style, always try to do so outside ... otherwise, you are just putting pollutants back into the air in your home, even if you don't see them. 

    Jo Ann

2

Health / Re: Horribly Aggressive Chin Behavior, HELP

« on: December 05, 2013, 11:51:23 AM »

   When a chinchilla changes (especially suddenly) something caused it.   
Now, to figure out what ...
1.  For yourself and anyone around ...    have you changed soap, shampoo, conditioner, perfume, cologne, tooth paste, mouthwash, dish or clothes washing detergent or softener, medication, food, plants or anything with a smell to it ... no matter how slight the change?  {Chinchillas can be allergic to things the same way humans can}  And, believe it or not, medications, as they are processed in your system, cause you to give off different body odors.  Some scents are soothing, while others can be irritating ... the same scent can be reacted to differently by two different people or by chinchillas.
2.  Is there a new animal or person in the home or nearby outside or even at work or school?  {Dogs barking, birds screeching, cats hissing can all frighten a chin.  Even the smell of something unknown can trigger fear in a chinchilla.}
3.  Have you replaced the carpet, rugs, furnature or clothing or moved recently, on or around the time this started happening?   {Chinchillas do not like change and all of these things do give off different scents/fumes.}
4.   Are their any new members or visitors to your home or even in the neighborhood?   {It could be someone, something or an animal even ... that you may be touching and the scent is remaining on you or your clothing.}
5.  Is there a particular time of the day or night that he may seem more or less 'irritated' at/with your presence?
6.  Is he more irritable with one of your more so than the other?
7.  If you are more affectionate to each other in front of your little one, does it seem to make a difference?  {I had one little one that was jealous of me and my husband.  She claimed my husband as her own, and would spray me if we kissed in front of her.}
8.  Did his/her attitude change after changing her diet? 
Please keep in mind:  All of the 'extras' added to a chinchillas food are for the human's benefit ... not for the chinchilla's health.  We, as humans, want variety ... so ... we think our animals want the same thing ... they may want variety ... but ... it causes more harm than good, especially with chinchillas.   
I've been a breeder for well over 20 years, when a chinchilla becomes ill, most vets that know what they are doing, will tell you put a chin on a strict diet of water and hay to help get it's system back to normal.   A chinchilla can survive on hay and water alone and be very healthy.   In my opinion, and many others who have been around longer than me, stress a treat is just that ... a treat ... and should only be given as a reward, training device or something special.  Giving a chinchilla food with treats mixed in it is like giving a child ice cream and candy with their vegtables ... the kids will eat the ice cream and/or candy and leave the vegtables because that's what tastes the best to them, but it is not the best thing for them.  Chinchillas are like little children, they will have fits to get what they want, even if it is not the best thing for them, or for their health.   {The most heartbreaking story I've ever heard about was a chinchilla that was given a BBQ bone from a rib, by a well-meaning visitor, because the chin was begging for it.  The chin ate it and enjoyed every bite, but died within 24 hours ... chinchillas can not have any meat or meat byproduct ... it will kill them.}   Chinchillas, much like children (and even some adults) do not know what is best for them.   A diet of pellets, fresh crisp hay and water is the best thing for your chinchilla.   Treats should be given very sparingly and only as a special thing (bonding or reward).    The extra  'treats'/additives in your chin's diet may have actually caused the change in your chinchilla by producing a chemical imbalance in your chin's system.  Most manufactures  appeal to you and what you like, not to what is best for your chinchilla.  They do this sometimes out of ignorance, but mostly for the money.   Chinchillas did not have treats or dies or additives in their diet in the wild and could grow to be several healthy pounds, not so in captivity with the 'diets' we often give them.   Please note:  When changing your chin's diet ... even for the better ... it must be done slowly ... over a period of a week or two ... by replacing a portion of the old with the new diet, until it has been changed to the all new, healthy diet completely.  This has to be done slowly so that their system has a chance to adjust to the new, better-for-them diet.
9.   Illness, even though you may not see any signs of it, can cause a chinchilla to become very irritable.  A vet check would not hurt.  But ... with a vet that is very knowledgeable about chinchillas ... not all are what they say they are.   You want an exotic pet vet that has had lots of experience with chinchillas.    Chinchillas rarely need a vet, but when they do, the better the vet, the more likely your little one has a chance to survive it's illness or injury.  Ask the advice of chinchilla owners/breeders in your area when it comes to choosing a vet for your little one.
10.   If you have changed your diet or exercise habits, this will cause you to give off a different odor or scent (breath or body) that may be offensive to your chin.   Turning on the heat at the beginning of the colder temperature weather will put new old, musty scents in the air ... consider this and maybe air-out the house/apartment for about 30 minutes.

Are chinchillas really that sensitive to smells and changes?   Not usually, but they can be.

Should you force the situation and try to make your chinchilla react to you in a more friendly manner?  No, that does not work.

Should you try to figure out what has caused the problem and change the situation?   Yes, if at all possible.

When a chinchilla warns you by trying to run away and hide, by pushing your hands away from him, by fussing/barking at you, spraying or nipping you ... he/she is trying to communicate to you something is wrong or you are doing something that frightens him, please try to figure out what it is and change it.  He/she is a very tiny creature in comparison to size and it is in a world that is alien to it with a great deal of communication difficulty ... he/she is trying to let you know something is wrong ... when you ignore that and try to force the situation, it only makes it worse and much more frustrating for your little chin and, in turn, for yourself.

Lots and lots of patients, trial and error and many, many soft spoken words, affection and good attention seem to work the best in the long run.

Good luck and keep us posted!   I'm anxious to know what the problem/solution turns out to be.   

   Jo Ann

3

Health / Re: Is it safe to spray Glade or air wick in a room occupied by chins?

« on: December 05, 2013, 10:11:31 AM »

   Depending on what type of central air circulation system you have will decide how much of the smell/scents/deodorizers move from one room to another via the central air system.  The frequency in which you change the air filters to your heating/cooling system will also have an effect on how much of the 'fumes/smell' travel from one room to another, since you keep the door to the chin's room closed.  (Also, changing the filters frequently tends to lower your utility cost and causes less strain on your heating/cooling system while making it work more efficiently.)  Nothing works 100%.   During the spring, summer and fall months, we often are able to open the windows to 'air-out' the house.   Air pollution inside most homes is worse than the air pollution outside, especially in the winter months, because the lack of fresh air circulating within the home itself.  I usually keep at least two windows (one upstairs and one downstairs) in the house cracked year round.  Only 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch can be a huge help in supplying fresh air in your home without changing the temperature or heating/cooling bills drastically. 

Keep in mind germs from the flu or a cold (and other sources) not only survive, but thrive, in the normal temperature in most homes.  Everyone needs fresh air!     And, yes, chinchillas are capable of having the flu or a cold or anallergic reaction ... but ... their lungs are very tiny and are not developed to withstand exposure to these viruses.  When others are sick, do not let them near your chins.  If you are sick ... wash your hands, wear a mask and have an apron or cover you can wear over your clothes when you enter their room to care for them.  They are much like little babies and you are their parent(s).  Protect them.   

Keep us posted!

    Jo Ann

4

Q & A / Re: Possessiveness/ jealousy?

« on: November 30, 2013, 08:21:51 AM »

   Chinchillas feel the full array of human emotions ... including 'the big green-eyed monster' know as jealousy.    Been there ... lived through that!

We have one chin Peetunia (note the spelling) ... she claimed my husband for her own.  If he puts his arms around me or kisses me in front of her she goes into fits and will spray me every time I pass her cage for the rest of the day ... to let me know he (my hubby) is HER man, not mine.   

We have another chin, Missy, she dearly loves my husband and demands his attention.  If he walks into the room and does not speak to her ... ignores her and goes straight to the chair (all the way across the room) to his computer without acknowledging her first ... she not-so-politely lets him know she is miffed at being ignored and 'rains on his head' ... female chinchillas rarely spray unless they or their kits are in danger, but they will sometimes do it to let you know they are upset or that they want you attention ... they are VERY accurate up to 7 feet away.   Needless to say, Bill rarely forgets to speak to her as soon as he enters the room (because she never misses!).   

Missy will sometimes play dead to get your attention ... she lays up on her hut, upside down, head hanging over the edge, feet and legs straight up in the air ... not moving at all.   We run to her and as soon as we do, she, hops down and runs to the door of the cage, as if totally innocent of anything wrong,  for a loving chin scratch or belly rub.  You gotta love their little antics.   

So goes a day in the life of a chinchilla breeder/lover!

   Jo Ann

5

Q & A / Re: very strange chinchilla, need a lot of help for this one

« on: November 30, 2013, 07:55:06 AM »

   It is such a shame that the previous owners either did not know how to care for their chinchillas or that, even worse, just didn't care.  Should you decide to re-home Polo, the odds are, it will not be good for him/her unless the person has had experience with an aggressive chinchilla and knows how to cope with them.  Being swapped from one home to another is stressful, even when the new home is the better of the two. Rarely are most people willing to care for an aggressive animal.  I  you for taking on this task for your two little chinnies!  Now, that I have said that ... Chinchillas scare easily, forget rarely and are extremely hard to get to learn that there are some humans out there that will not harm them.    You are apparently one of those few that care enough to do so.   

With Polo, it will take lots of time and plenty of patients, then one day, when you least expect it, he/she will respond to you favorably.  When this, or even a hint of it is apparent, reward him with a treat and softly spoken kind words of love.   Be very aware of what Polo reacts to ... good as well as bad reactions.  Reward what he responds to positively and make note to avoid what he responds to negatively and try never to do it again.  Chinchillas usually have several steps for warning you of the danger of a bite from them.  Not all chins go through all steps, and they may go through them quickly or skip a few, if they feel they are in danger ... even if they are not in danger.  It is what they think/feel that makes them react the way they do.  The normal warning signs from the chinchilla to the humans are as follows and usually in this order:
1. They will try to run away.
2. They will try to push your hand away from them.
3. They will fuss at you (high-pitched sharp sounds).
4. Some females will spray you.  (In the wild, this is the way the female would defend her kits.  They can be very accurate up to about 7 feet.)
5. They will nip you firmly, but not break the skin.
If you persist ...
6.  They can, and often will bite, but only because they feel they are defending themselves from potential harm.  They can bite all the way to the bone.  This is extremely RARE, but can happen.   And even more rarely they hold on ... to make them release (but only for this reason) blow into their face.  Do NOT use this as a punishment, but only to protect yourself or another person.

In my 20+ years with well over 500 chinchillas, I have only been bitten 4 times.  I learned quickly, the various steps to watch for that they will use to warn you.  Normally, they want nothing more than to please you, but if you frighten them bad enough or harm them ... they remember it for a very long, long time.  A chinchilla's trust is hard to earn and easy to loose, especially if they have been abused in the past.

1. What might not scare one chin may terrify another one.
2. Chinchillas do not like loud or sudden noises (loud t.v., radio, fighting, screaming, items being dropped, thrown or broken, hitting the bars of the cage, etc.)
3. Never, ever, ever, ever hit a chinchilla ... they do not bite for no reason ... even if you are not aware of it, there is a reason ... be conscious of anything that seems to startle or upset the chin and avoid it or doing it again.  At all times, watch for the signs/chin warnings listed above.  Stop what you are doing and make a mental note of that and what is going on around you and the chin at the time.   Even if it is a dog barking outside the building, this could frighten the chin ... he probably thinks the dog can get to him ... especially if what you were told about the prior owners having a dog that could have hurt or frightened Polo.  The loud barking of a dog near a chin can be very painful to their ears, even if the dog never touched Polo ... it probably scared him half to death.

Always keep in mind how you would feel if some creature the size of a huge building took you away from your family and away from other humans.  If it, even unintentionally hurt you ... how would that make you feel?   In proportion to size ... this is what you are to your little chins.   Love, kindness, good attention and lots and lots of patients can go a l-o-n-g way to make a happy home for all concerned.   

Check out my web site for other ideas and information.  www.luvnchins.com/  and/or e-mail me ... the e-mail address is at the bottom of many of the pages ... look for and click on the typing chinchilla at the bottom of the opening page.   

   Jo Ann

6

Q & A / Re: bedding suggstions?

« on: November 30, 2013, 06:48:55 AM »

   Dried pine chips are great for chinchillas.  I've uses them for over 20 years without a problem ... oops, there was one time, a long time ago ...  I chose an 'off brand' made for horse stalls (to save money - I had over 200 chinchillas at that time) and ended up with some little tiny black bugs ... the bugs could not get to the chins (because of their thick fur), but they could get to me ... ouch!  That was no fun.              You live and learn ... sometimes the hard way ... but, those are the lessons you remember best.   

But even with pine chips, the cage needs to be cleaned weekly.  You can also 'spot' clean it if you can find the area they like to tinkle in most often.  Just remove the moist chips and replace it with fresh ones daily, or every day or two.   Also, if you have a male chin, (it is rare, but ...) they will sometimes decide spraying outside the cage (onto the wall or rug) suites them well.  If this is happening, I suggest the use of a shower curtain or painter's drop cloth and wipe it down often.  Be very careful not to get the plastic within 4 to  6 inches of the cage .... these little ones will surprise you at their ability to reach things outside their cage, but still within a 4 inch distance of the outer bars.

Newspaper that has not been printed on is a favorite of those people allergic to pine.   When paper is used, I suggest changing the paper daily ... every other day as a minimum guideline to follow, in my opinion.  This can often be purchased for a minimal cost at a newspaper distributor/printer ... just ask if the have any 'end of the roll' paper left that you could purchase ... some are even nice enough to just give it to you freely.  Once the paper has been printed on, you are exposing your little ones and you, to the smell, the chemicals and the mess of printing ink.

If, after all this, IF there is still an odor from your chin, it's time for a vet check!  Chinchillas can get infections in their bladder that can cause an odor.  Any 'bad' odor from a chinchilla usually is there to alert you there is a health problem that needs attending to!   Also, if a chinchilla is exposed to giardia (a parasite), it gives off a horrible odor and giardia can kill your chin.  If you have a female chinchilla, some people will notice a slight odor when she goes into season ... but as a general rule, chinchillas constantly clean themselves (especially the females at this time), and it is rarely smelled by the normal human nose. 

There are lots of reason to be able to smell something ... but with a chinchilla that is kept clean, this is rare, unless you have a super sensitive nose.   Hope this helps. 

   Jo Ann

P.S.  Are your chins directly on the paper/chips or is the paper/wood chips in a tray that is separated with cage wire?  If there is a wire separating the chin and the bedding, remember ... their urine and poop touches and leaves some residue on the cage wire and/or shelves of the cage.   These should be cleaned at a minimum on a weekly basis.   A hand held steam cleaning machine works wonders and non-commercial ones can be purchased at a reasonable price!  And the best thing ... your chins are not exposed to cleaning chemicals, yet the steam sterilizes the cage wires/shelves! 

7

Health / Re: Is it safe to spray Glade or air wick in a room occupied by chins?

« on: November 30, 2013, 06:09:31 AM »

   Chinchillas are from the Andes Mountains where the air is clean and clear naturally, their lungs were not made to handle man-made perfumes or other chemical odors/compounds.  Pneumonia is usually the eventual result of exposure to these man made odors.   Your friend/roommate could easily kill your chinchillas by spraying chemicals, powders or using any other "man-made" items in the same room as your chin, such as, but not limited to, bath powder, air spray, sented candles, perfume, cleaning chemicals, bug spray, cat litter with an 'odor controller', and cedar wood chips, just to mention a few. 

If you clean your chin's cage weekly, there should be no real noticeable odors to most people.  But, some people have sensitive noses.  You might want to 'gently suggest' your roommate not go into the room where your chinchillas are kept and keep the door to that room closed, as not to offend your roommate's nose.  If this does not work for your roommate, you might think of getting a new roommate OR finding your little ones a new home.  (Sorry, but, as a breeder of chinchillas for 20+ years,  I'm 150% for chinchillas.  ) 

Keep us posted on what you decide to do.   Hope all works out for the best (especially for the chinchillas).   

   Jo Ann

8

Q & A / Re: getting new chinchilla

« on: June 18, 2013, 03:44:11 PM »

   Thanks Faken!  You probably tried when we were making the corrections to the site.  I kept a tech on the line for over 2 hours .... you should be able to get to the site now.     All connections to all links should be working at this time.  If you ever see one that is not or if you have trouble getting to it, please let me know!  Thanks!

Jo Ann
www.luvnchins.com/
and the URL to the first of 3 pages about Gidget and her quads are here: http://www.luvnchins.com/GigetKitsDay1.html  Go to the very bottom of the page to get to page 2 and the same for page 3.  I think you'll like the videos. 

9

Q & A / Re: getting new chinchilla

« on: June 18, 2013, 08:56:06 AM »

   How precious!  Beautiful little kit!  They grow quickly.

I have lots of information for new chin owners on my website. 

There are videos of little ones from day one to adults. 

I set my site up for newbies because of the trouble I had finding good information on the internet when I started out many years ago. 

My site is a large one, but it's 20+ years of research and breeding and raising chinchillas.  It's at www.luvnchins.com/

Here's one link to one of the short videos that is working properly: http://www.luvnchins.com/VideoChinchillaAntics.html

I just noticed a couple of my other links are not working ... I will repair a.s.a.p.  because the one to "Giget & Her Quads" is a special one to see ... it is several videos over 3 pages of a momma chin and her quads during the the first two weeks of the kit's lives.  I'll post the url to that one as soon as I get it fixed.

You have lots to learn and a short time to do it!  You want to make sure everything is set up and ready for your little one when it is time to bring him home!

  Jo Ann

URL: http://www.luvnchins.com/GigetKitsDay1.html  There are 3 pages ... go all the way to the bottom of each page to reach the next page. 

10

Health / Re: Teeth problems

« on: June 18, 2013, 08:24:23 AM »

   You and your vet can find a world of information at the California Chins website.  It is a research group in California for Chinchillas.  They often do do consults with vets.  You can find them at: http://www.cachins.org/  They also have information and several recipes for chinchilla supplements you may find very helpful.

   A chinchilla's health is often directly related to the health of it's teeth and it's digestive system.  The teeth are the instruments for the ability to start the digestive system.  When they are not able to be used normally, for whatever reason, your help, as their chin parent, and your vet's experience and help will probably be needed for him to survive.  Tooth problems may be what is called malocclusion, or something stuck between his teeth or even a cracked tooth or spur on the tooth.  An X-ray should tell you this if the exam cannot.  If he can not chew his own food, it's up to you! 

Here's a recipe I have used many times for my little ones:
 
Homemade Critical Care

1/2 cup ground Alfalfa Hay
      (Timothy or Meadow Hay is OK, but Alfalfa is the richest ... whatever you can find that is fresh and crisp)
1/8 cup rolled oats
      (Not the kind with the Quaker on the box ... the natural ones that came from a field
       ... they can be found in a feed store usually or from someone that raises horses)
 1   capsule acidophilus (found in most health food stores)  Keep bottle in refrigerator once it has been opened!
 5 or 6 drops Pedialyte
      (I use Gerber baby food apple flavored individual size bottle because pedialyte
      is only good for 24 hours after opening.) The rest of the bottle I use in the water
       bottle 2 ounces at a time. Empty, wash and rinse between filling.
 2   small air-tight containers

Instructions:
(1) Grind the alfalfa hay and the rolled oats in the blender or coffee grinder (Wait for dust in container to settle before removing the top or you will have a green dust cloud floating in the room.)
(2) Allow powder to cool in refrigerator for about 15 minutes before adding acidophilus!
(3) Empty one capsule of Acidophilus into the powder mix.
(4) Use a table spoon of mixture with a few drops of the pedialyte to moisten it.
(5) Form little 'foot balls' about the size of a raisin. 
(6) Give your chin 2 or 3 at a time at least 4 times a day. More often, if he will eat them.
(7) Store extra 'footballs' in an air-tight container in the refrigerator.
( Store left over powder mix in another air-tight container in the refrigerator.
(9) Store Acidophilus in Refrigerator at all times after you open the bottle!

The necessity to store in the refrigerator is because the acidophilus contains the flora needed to keep the digestive system working properly in order to keep it working as needed.  Acidophilus must be kept refrigerated to remain viable.

Your chin's poop/feces should always be oval shaped, moist and firm ... and allot of it ... not small, not hard or dry, and not mushy wet either.  When a chin is sick or having problems, I keep a layer of white paper towels or butcher paper as a lining in the cage ... check it to see any changes in the poop and change the paper daily.  This can be a constant check on the digestive system.  When the poop/feces changes, your chin's health is changing.  There should be lots of poop ... a decrease in the number, size and/or texture of the poop usually means there is a problem.  Poop can be one of the first signs of illness in a chinchilla.  This will be obvious long before you may notice any other sign in time to help him get well a.s.a.p.

If a chinchilla's digestive system is not working properly, he can get stopped-up or constipated.  For humans, this is uncomfortable and can cause pain ... for a chinchilla it can kill.  When a chinchilla gets stopped up, his system makes him feel full ... because he is ... full of not digested food.  He thinks he is not hungry because his tummy feels full, so he does not eat ... when he does not eat he gets weaker and weaker.  A chinchilla's digestive system or "gut" must remain properly active or it can kill him.

I am not a vet, but I have been raising and breeding chinchillas for over 20 years and have had over 200 at any given time during many of these years.  I still have several that are living from the original 10 that I started with.  They are in their 20s and are in their senior years.

Your love and dedication to your chin is needed for them to survive.  The rewards they give you are multiplied many times over ... they can make you smile and laugh at the end of even the worst of bad days for you.  This is called chinchilla love!  Keep your little one happy and healthy and he will do the same for you!

Hope this helps!  Keep us posted!
Jo Ann
Luv 'N Chins 

11

New Births / Re: mam just gave birth help

« on: May 08, 2013, 02:37:52 PM »

  

...the poo was darker(normal colour) and the only way I can describe it about 4small poos stuck together he's also chewing a lot on his wooden toys I'm going to see how he is tomorrow if no better I will take him back to the vets

  The "4 small poos stuck together" ... with my past experience ... is either the beginning of a sign of constipation OR the first signs that the constipation is possibly breaking loose.    I'm thinking, because of the discoloration of the earlier poo and the more normal looking latest poo that it is the latter of the two.  Which is good ... just got to keep it moving.  When the digestive system does not work properly, problems can pile up quickly.  One lady I was helping with her chin's constipation, when it finally broke loose, he pooped a string of poos stuck end to end to each other that measured over 3 inches long.   

   Making the little balls of the "Critical Care" or the homemade equilivant, is a good source of nutrition and fiber, plus it will help replenish the flora in his digestive system ... but ... be sure to use cold water or pydelite  to moisten the 'formula' with to form the balls and remember to refrigerate in an airtight container those he is not having immediately ... offer them to him one or two at a time several times a day ... warmer temperatures (room) tend to kill the flora if they are left out in the air to long.  If he will eat them this way, it is much better for you and him and much less stress and mess for both of you.  Besides, chins like the idea of treats handed to them, than the idea that they are being force-fed.

    I would check with the vet about allowing him out to play and what restrictions he might need.  (Such as closer supervision than normal.  Not allowing him above floor level - he might fall or jump and land on an object that would injure him.  Making sure he and his mate do not get to active or get overheated.)  You might want to have a chilled chin-chiller for him to go to and set on to cool off, should he get tired or to warm.  Or a mason jar filled with ice, using a thightly closed metal lid, will give him cooler air right around it and will provide a little bit of water from the condensation that will form on the outside of the jar.  I would watch out for him if he becomes agitated or fussy ... this is often a sign he needs to rest and/or you may even contact the vet.  If this is not a normal attitude for him, it can become one, if, he is hurting or injured or sick.  Chinchillas can often be a bit short-tempered when they do not feel well or are in pain.

   At this time, I too, strongly advise against rubbing his tummy or any where near his surgery.  He may appear to be healing on the outside, but it takes a bit longer to heal on the inside.  When a human baby is constipated or has gas in his digestive trac, it will often help if it's mother will very gentally rub (with a downward motion) from the base of the neck, down the spine to just above the tail and repeat this over and over ... in the one direction only.  I have done this with chins that have been injured or were ill and were having some signs of constipation ... it always seemed to help ... but ... ask your vet first.

  Keep us posted!
Jo Ann

12

New Births / Re: mam just gave birth help

« on: May 03, 2013, 08:10:19 PM »

I would give him Alfalfa hay at this time, he needs the extra nourishment it will provide him.

thanks for post I done a lot of research before I went ahead with his neutering got a very experienced vet who does chinchillas regularly also spoke to a few breeders who has neutered lots of their males and in there opinion is a lot safer these days touch wood  he is in the bottom half of the cage for now  with a nice clean comfortable fleece with wooden toys food and hay n water the cage is separated by a wood shelf so poo and wee can not land on him or go anywhere in his cage, I will do everything I can by the book and hopefully he well feel better in a couple of days but I will keep an eye on how much he's eating and get some critical care if need be.
I do think ive thought this through he was miserable as sin on his own and the baby is a girl so I couldn't of even got him a male for company so in my opinion it was the best option for him.

Kay

Yes, things are much better with the vets and chinchillas now.  When I first started, there were very few that knew that much about chinchillas, let alone did the surgery on them.  Chins are very good about hiding their medical problems until it is almost to late ... but ... it sounds like your little one had a very knowledgeable vet to take good care of him and a very good "chin mom" (you) ... but ... I'd still give him the Critical Care if he were mine ... guess some of us ole folks are just set in our ways and like to stick with what works best for us.       As long as he is happy and healthy, nothing else matters.   

13

New Births / Re: mam just gave birth help

« on: May 02, 2013, 07:21:54 AM »

   Chinchillas do not respond to surgery well at all.      There are so many different complications that can happen.      The only way I would put one of mine through surgery would be IF that little one's life were at stake and there were no other possible options that would save it's life.   Over the pas 20+ years, I have heard more chinchilla owners say they would never do it again ... usually because a 'complication' from the surgery or an after affect from it caused the little one to die.

Each of us has to decide for ourselves what chances we are willing to take with the life of these precious creatures.  It is never an easy decision.  One thing you might want to question your vet about is: "How many of these surgeries have you done? " and "What was the final outcome?"  I would even ask if you could talk to some of the other chin owners that he had done surgery on their chinchillas.  It's always best to be safe rather than sorry.  A vet with a good surgical record on chinchillas should not refuse your request.  If he does ... I would ask myself ... What does he have to hide?

Hope this helps.
   Jo Ann

PS Keep us posted!

I posted this before I realized you already had him neutered.   I am not a vet, but I have had 20 + years with chinchillas.  I can only give you my personal opinion as to what I would do ... according to the experiences I have had with chinchillas over the years.  (I have had over 200 chinchillas at the same time over many years.)  I always found it a good thing to use the Critical Care and/or  acidophilus  after a surgery or during an illness or injury.  Do keep in mind the critical care and/or  acidophilus needs to be kept refrigerated once it has been opened.   And it needs to be given halfway between any doses of antibiotic or pain medication.   Surgery and the pain medication and antibiotics work against a chin to have a normal digestive progress.  The normal digestive system is a must for a chinchilla.  Antibiotics will kill all bacteria ... the bad and the good ... the antibiotic does not know the difference in them.  The 'good' bacteria is often called 'flora' and is necessary to properly digest the food.   The good bacteria or 'flora' needs to be replinished on a regular basis, but can not be given at the same time or close to the same time as an antibiotic or the will cancel each other out and it will be as if they have been geting nothing.   If the food is not being properly digested you will usually find smaller, dryer poops and they will continue to decrease in number.  Because of this, the system becomes stopped-up and the chin feels 'full' and not hungry and will quit eating.  Once this happens, it can cause some major problems.  The chin can literally die of hunger because he thinks he fills 'full', when in reality, he is stopped up or constipated.  Judge by the ammount of food he is eating on a daily basis, not just the poop at the bottom of the cage.  Something to think about.   You say the male is in the bottom half of the cage ... If you have your male in the bottom half of the cage and the female and her kit in the top half of the cage, unless you have a solid pan between the two levels, to catch the mom and kit's poop and pee ... much of the poop/feces you are seeing in the bottom is probably from the mom and the kit.  Also, keeping his area clean is a must ... if there is no solid divider between the two levels ... the pee/urin from the mom and kit are contanimating the lower level. 

I would give him Alfalfa hay at this time, he needs the extra nurishment it will provide him. 

14

General Breeder Chat / Re: In labor?

« on: April 27, 2013, 07:47:54 PM »

   Since she is new to you, it will be hard to find some of the very early signs of labor.  Most expectant moms will consume more water than usual in the 24 to 48 hours preceding birth.  Laying on the side is not necessarily a sign of labor (allot of my male chins lay that way), but flattening out on their tummies and having rapid breathing can be one.  If you watch closely you can see the contractions.  Stretching and even appearing to try to move something by pushing on it are signs of labor.  Her cage can look like the neighborhood exercise room at times.

But, as chinclub says, you are new to her and she to you.  Labor and delivery can be a stressful time for some chins and privacy is often the most welcome to the soon-to-be mom.  Now, if she is not in labor now, and is a month from now, your presence could be reassuring ... as long as you can remain calm and relaxed.  Animals sense this.  If you are stressed and upset, she will probably be also.  Not a good thing for a new chin-mom.

       Now, once her water breaks and she starts delivering, she will probably spend extra time cleaning herself.  Chinchillas are very clean animals.  And lots of time cleaning the kits.  The kits will usually "pop" out rather easily, but there is always the possibility of problems.  If a kit seems to be partially out, but not come on out with in the next few pushes/contractions.  You might want to let your vet know what is going on.  If you see blood continuing to flow, call your vet.  There is always a chance something can go wrong, but keep in mind millions of chinchillas have been born without the intervention of mankind.  It is a very natural thing occurring.  Keeping in mind this is true, it is still a miracle each time it happens.  Each and every time, I find myself in awe of the miracle of a new life.  Especially a chinchilla kit ... they are born fully furred, with eyes open and are usually up and playing within an hour or so.  They can even climb the cage wires within the first 24 to 48 hours.  For this reason, they need a cage that has wires no more than 1 inch long and 1/2 inch wide.  (Kits have been known to crawl/fall through a hole as small as 1  inch square, to the floor and usually to their death.)  Cages that are more than 15 inches high will often be the death of a new kit.  Kits have the ability and know how to crawl up, but not down.  Once they reach the top, they turn loose and fall to the bottom.  If they are lucky and do not hit anything (like a hut or feeding bowl) on their way down and have a nice thick layer of bedding to land on, they may have a chance, but not always. 

    Do you have a second cage for the male?  He must be separated from mom and kits for the first 10 days or he will probably breed her again during this time.  If she is nursing one litter while her body is trying to develop a new litter at the same time, the results are at best ... bad for all concerned.  This is to much of a strain on momma Chin's natural resources and she is not able to produce enough milk for her nursing kits, nor enough calcium to properly form the kits in the next litter.  There is allot of responsibility that goes with breeding chinchillas.  It can be wonderful one time and heart breaking the next.  Being prepaired can often make that difference.  Not just being prepared for the emergencies, but also being prepared for the unknown sides of nature, it can often times seem very harsh.

Stay calm cool and collected ... that is the best for you and for your chins.  Have a reputable vet that is very familiar with chinchillas and have all the things that your chins need along with proper housing for them and all should end well. 

   Hope this helps!
Jo Ann

15

New Births / Re: mam just gave birth help

« on: April 27, 2013, 06:38:24 PM »

   This must be your first litter.  The best and funniest times will be over the next month.  Your kit will jump around in a rather odd manner we call "pop-corning"  You'll know as soon as you see it.  I have a video on my site where you can see one ... they are soooo cute when they do that.  http://www.luvnchins.com/VideoChinchillaAntics.html

Mom and dad must be kept separated for 10 days ... this is the time when she can easily (but dangerously get pregnant again) ... on day 10 (this is also when mom and kit/kits get their first dust bath since birth) Daddy can rejoin mom, if she will let him.  Some will and some will not.  I have one chin-mom that will welcome dad back if she has only female kits ... if she has any male kits in the litter she will not allow him back until the kits are weaned and in another cage.  This is the only one that does it that way.  Other chin moms welcome dad and some flat refuse to let him back as long as she is nursing the kits and they are in the cage with her.  I have found (over many years) if you will let mom out for some R&R (rest and relaxation) from the kits on a daily basis, she seems to be much better with the kits.  Also, during mom's 'free play time'  I let dad in with the kits.  This keeps his scent in the cage and on the kits and will usually assure mom's willingness to let dad return after the 10 day separation time.  It is a must to keep a close eye on daddy and the kits while daddy is in the cage and momma is out playing.  It is very, very rare, but has been known to happen, that the dad will kill the kits, especially the male ones.  Usually daddy becomes a great helping hand to momma.  He will snuggle with and help clean the kits.  I have one pair that the kits will run to momma to be fed, but as soon as they finish eating, dad takes over and cleans, plays with and snuggles with the kits while momma then enjoys her quiet time on another shelf.  Remember, it can go many different ways ... every chin and every chin couple are unique!  Even the same pair may be different with each different litter.

There is a huge difference in "ability to do" and a "healthy idea to do" something ... with chins as well as it is with humans.  A male chinchilla has the 'ability to' impregnate a female chinchilla at the tender age of 10 weeks old.  Of course, the female may kill him for even attempting it.  A female chinchilla has the 'ability to' get pregnant at 3 months of age, but she is not developed enough or large enough to safely deliver the kits and usually, both little momma and all kits perish.  Chinchillas have no boundaries when it comes to reproducing ... within or out side the immediately family.  Inbreeding is not a good or healthy practice ... soooooo ... make sure if you have a male kit, that he is in his own cage before 10 weeks of age and that the female kits are in their own cage before they turn 3 months old.

Now, lets get to the cages and housing different chins together.  Two females alone usually work out, but not always.  Two males alone usually work out, but not always.  One of the 'not always' is when two females are housed together and one has a litter.  Sometimes they help with the litter, other times they may kill the litter.  You never know for sure.  The main 'not always' can turn into 'an almost never' when it comes to housing two males together when there is a female in the same room or even the same level in the house.  Why?  Mother Nature calls it 'survival of the fittest'.  Two males may get along for a long time, but, usually there will come a day when there is a female in season within sniffing distance ... she may be all the way across the room or even in another room ... but, males have been know to fight to the death for the possibility of breeding that female.  They may never get the chance ... she's in another cage ... but they will fight for the right to be the one that will have that chance.   I found this out in a very hard way ... a father and son were housed together for almost a year, then one of the females went into season ... the males fought, both were in bad shape, but I came very close to losing the son.  I can not get to the picture of the son, due to computer problems right not, but believe me, I sat and cried when I saw him.  There may be a picture on one of the older threads with a story about them.

42 grams is not a bad weight for a newborn kit ... it is in the upper part of normal range.  I have had several kits live that weighed 21 grams at birth.  Then there was the brother and sister born at the same time in a superfoetation situation.  A female born weighing 18 grams lived ... her brother was 52 grams.  Quite a site side by side.  Both conceived at different times, but born on the same day.  It was a struggle for the little female, but she had a good mom and a loving brother that allowed mom to give her the most attention.

As bad as this may sound, a momma chin usually knows when there is something wrong with a kit and that he will probably not survive.  Again, Mother Nature takes over.  Momma chin will often abandon a kit and move her other kits to the far side of the cage to care for them if there is something wrong with the kit or if she does not have enough milk for all of the kits (such as in a large litter of 4 to 6 kits).  This leaves the kit to die from getting chilled or from lack of nourishment.  There are also times a momma will kill one before she will allow it to suffer very long.  This is an instinct chinchillas are born with, it is not being mean or cruel, but the only way she can keep the remaining kit/kits alive and healthy.  It is nature's way of allowing the healthy to survive and those that would suffer, not to suffer any more than necessary.

Chinchillas are shall we say 'well endowed' and have been known to mate when cages are less than 3" apart, so keep them close enough to keep their scents of each other and far enough away to play it safe.    This is for the cage you have any male chins in that is close to a female's cage. 

If daddy is not eating good, make him special treats made of fresh hay (Alfalfa if it's available) ground almost to a powder in your blender (let the dust settle before opening the top of the blender), mixed with a little bit of water and a drop or two of apple juice ... just enough to make it hold together and shape them in little football shapes ... about the size of a raisin.  Keep in an air tight container in the refrigerate and give him one or two at a time.  During this time give him your attention 100% ... he may be feeling a bit left out with all the attention going to mom and her new kit.  Be sure he gets his needed attention also.   

Hope this has helped.

   Jo Ann