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Messages - GrayRodent

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 183
1
Q & A / Re: Question about reliable Timothy Hay
« on: November 30, 2020, 12:05:44 PM »
I recommend trying to find a store that sells food for livestock. Usually they will sell bailed hay. You'll probably have to buy a lot more hay than you'll want and end up and throwing most of it out but it's inexpensive. For about the same price as what you pay at a pet store for a small quantity you can get a medium sized bail and you'll be able to tell if it's fresh.

I usually buy a 50lb compressed bail and it lasts for months for two chins. As long as the hay is still green it's good. I store the hay in laundry bags (because they are breathable).

2
That's an interesting problem. Although I don't know exactly what's going on. If you're using a heat pump it is normal for it to smell strongly once it is run for the first time of the year. Because the unit is no longer blowing when it's turned off its fan cannot mask other noises that your pet would normally hear. This would make your pet uneasy until it gets used to the new noises it can hear. Chinchillas can make sounds that are inaudible to us. The same bobbing of the head you see when it makes audible calls can also be seen when it makes inaudible calls.

Running a fan in the room is probably your best solution. If it really is a problem with something burning or smoking in the unit it could be dangerous. If your unit is working properly the smell should dissipate after a couple hours of running. You could put your pet in another apartment while the unit is being tested.

3
Q & A / Re: Chinchilla prefers older hay?
« on: May 03, 2020, 06:23:03 PM »
Try another new bag of hay and see what happens. If there is something wrong with the hay it is possible the chinchilla won't eat it. Smell it and if it seems off or is causing a change in fecal texture it is wise to stop feeding it. It could instead be a matter of texture. Older hay is typically dryer and a chinchilla may prefer that given a choice.

4
Q & A / Re: Can chinchillas get coronavirus?
« on: March 13, 2020, 06:05:04 AM »
The Wuhan virus is one of numerous kinds of coronaviruses, including those that make up the common cold. I don't think it's possible to stop viruses like this from actually spreading so I suspect most people will eventually end up with it like the other kinds of coronaviruses that afflict humanity each year.

The COVID-19 epidemic has been politicized beyond belief as if government can somehow determine the success or failure of containing something that I very much doubt is containable any more than the seasonal flu. Flu has proven to be much more deadly this year. As more statistical data is gathered on those who have the virus who are not hospitalized with it, I think it becomes apparent it the symptoms and mortality rates are more in line with severe seasonal flu than the end-of-the-world like the media is hyping it up to be.

Those hospitalized with the flu have similar experiences to those hospitalized with COVID-19. (The 19th documented coronavirus)

In order for a virus to infect cells, its protein structure (proteins are assembled based on genes) must be chemically compatible with protein structure the cell wall of the host in order to penetrate the cell and infect it. Since humans and animals are not genetically similar it is unlikely that are both hosts are compatible with the same virus. Sometimes there are overlaps though.

Much more is known about SARS, another novel coronavirus that was documented in 2014, is similar in many ways to the Wuhan coronavirus and has been studied for years. Comparisons were made with proteins responsible for penetrating the hosts's cells between SARS and COVID-19. It turns out swine, cats, ferrets, and primates could be susceptible to infection. I think there is good evidence that cats can catch SARS and develop symptoms.

Rodents are not a good match, are considered to be resistant, and therefore are not being used for laboratory models in the study of COVID-19. So to answer your question, it appears that chinchillas cannot become infected with COVID-19.

There has been some concern about dogs. There was a PCR test done on a dog in Hong Kong where the virus showed up on the test as a weak match. Its owner tested positive for the virus which is why the dog was tested. It is still possible the dog's test was botched with contamination of virus particles from the owner. PCR tests use samples taken from the inside of the nose. Consider that the test showed only a weak match, the owner was in regular close contact with the dog, and the dog never showed any symptoms. I am skeptical the dog actually caught the virus. Nothing was said if there were antibodies found but I think that would be much more conclusive.

Even if animals do get the virus they won't necessarily be able to transmit it to humans as even more factors must be present for actual communication of a virus.

You can read more on this here:

https://www.wormsandgermsblog.com/2020/02/articles/animals/cats/covid-2-and-potential-animal-hosts/

and here:
https://www.newscientist.com/article/dn4329-cats-can-catch-sars-and-pass-it-on/

5
General Chat / Re: Won the chinchilla lottery
« on: February 19, 2020, 03:24:53 PM »
I'm so glad you ended up with a pet that you like. Sounds like you have a pretty well socialized animal too. One of my chinchillas likes to be rubbed on the back and head while the other prefers chin scratches. You should get her used to both and she'll eventually want both.

6
General Chat / Re: Taming my two chins
« on: February 18, 2020, 02:29:48 PM »
Chinchillas are not as docile as other pets like guinea pigs or rabbits. They need to be handled regularly and socialized because their natural tendency is to find a dark place and hide. You're going to have to start out by jumping in and just making it happen or this problem will only get worse. I recommend short sessions. Just take your pet out of the cage and hold it for about 10-15 seconds and put it back.  Use proper restraining technique. This means support the chinchilla's back feet and secure the base of the tail. If it tries to bite you support under the jaw. This might happen the first few days until your pets get more used to being handled. You can suspend by the base of the tail if you are afraid of dropping it. Absolutely do not handle further down the tail - only the very thickest part of the base.

After that time play with your pet through the bars of the cage or in the cage so you have some positive interaction time, and then do it again later in the day. Chinchillas usually like to be scratched under the chin and think they are being groomed. This can also have a calming effect.

The chinchillas will learn that being restrained is not going to hurt them, and that they are not always going to get their way. This should be part of their daily routine. After a few days of this you should see your pets becoming more calm, and you can incrementally increase their time being handled. Be careful not to overheat them because they are going to squirm and fight at times as they are learning. Eventually your pets should stop trying to fight you and might even crave being picked up, although that can take a few weeks. My pets can usually take it or leave it but both can easily be picked up and carried around without showing any signs of stress. At times they will jump into my hands to be carried around.

Be extremely careful not to drop the animal onto any hard surface. Try to release at floor level. If the animal is fighting you be certain you can control it before removing it from the cage.

7
Q & A / Re: Anxious chinchillas and traveling
« on: February 16, 2020, 04:07:35 PM »
Animals of any kind have their moods and hormone cycles and behavior patterns can change with age. Chinchillas normally don't travel gracefully although I've never heard of an chinchilla doing itself damage by biting the wiring on a travel cage so I wouldn't worry too much about that.

8
Q & A / Re: Chinchilla's long alarm call
« on: February 03, 2020, 10:23:48 AM »
Chinchillas are mostly sensitive to ultra low frequency sounds, pressure that is felt more than heard. They are also sensitive to changes in environment. I think you mentioned you changed something in the cage a few days ago. It could take some time for your pet to adjust to that if it was a significant rearrangement. There could be construction in your area, or large vehicles like garbage trucks. Mine don't like trash day. You can run a fan in the room (do not blow it through the cage) to generate some white noise.

Also check that the water is dispensing properly and food is available. If that doesn't help I wouldn't be concerned about health unless you're seeing weight loss.

9
Cages / Re: Cedar armoire
« on: January 26, 2020, 03:46:18 PM »
Cedar is toxic to ingest and inhale for any kind of rodent. It is irritating to the lungs and can cause acute pneumonia, and ingestion can cause liver damage over time. Long term lung irritation can put animals at risk of respiratory infections. It is the oil in the cedar that gives it its distinctive smell. In fact, it is advisable to prevent exposure to anything that has a strong scent such as air fresheners or scented candles to prevent fatalities from pneumonia. So you probably don't want this to be in the cage with the animal actually gnawing on it.

If wood is used white pine or aspen is advisable. If possible, it is advised to have an all metal cage with a wire floor with replaceable pine shelving. If the wood has a coating such as lacquer or clear coat it is toxic if ingested. Any pine chip bedding must be kiln dried.

10
Q & A / Re: Discolorations in chinchilla's right ear
« on: January 15, 2020, 02:12:51 PM »
I strongly suspect there was a broken blood vessel in the ear. Chinchillas can be very rambunctious especially at night and constantly bouncing around in their cage. It could have slammed into something. If the spot gets smaller and continues to lighten up that would be my first guess.

I recommend looking for any corners or hard objects in your chinchilla's play areas that it could have collided with. Also look for any gaps or things that its ear could have been caught in. If the spot gets redder and spreads you may want to have it checked out. I recommend taking photographs once a week and comparing them. I'm pretty sure the ear was bruised.

11
Q & A / Re: Discolorations in chinchilla's right ear
« on: January 15, 2020, 02:05:31 PM »
Here are the photographs of Dex's right ear. The first two were taken 1-12 then the last one was taken two days later.

12
Health / Re: Post Op - help / Question
« on: January 11, 2020, 07:44:10 PM »
I think you'll be okay long enough to see an exotic specialist if your pet will continue with the critical care. I recommend you have a syringe ready for feeding if it gets worse. It is possible the filing did not fix the problem. I also think your chinchilla has malocclusion.

13
Q & A / Re: Discolorations in chinchilla's right ear
« on: January 11, 2020, 07:35:11 PM »
Feel free to email me with the pictures at admin@chinchillaclub.com and I'll see they get posted.

14
Health / Re: Post Op - help / Question
« on: January 09, 2020, 09:34:38 AM »
Filing teeth is a treatment for malocclusion. If the filing is successful I'd wait another day or two to assess improvement.
What was the diagnosis and were there other treatments?
Also what is the nature of the drooling? Is it wet under the chin or could it be just slop from spoon feeding?

15
Health / Re: Broken Leg
« on: November 20, 2019, 05:18:34 AM »
I'm so sorry to hear this. I think you did the right thing. I suspect it is related to aging.

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