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Author Topic: fattening foods  (Read 3628 times)

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Snickerdoodlesmom

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fattening foods
« on: February 06, 2013, 08:44:20 PM »

Snickerdoodle is too skinny. At the vet, he weighed 11.5 ounces. I can feel his bones; he feels too thin. What are some safe, fatty foods I can give him?
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gasaraki03

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Re: fattening foods
« Reply #1 on: February 06, 2013, 09:31:02 PM »

That is skinny around 325g. You can maybe try alfalfa hay which is more faty than timothy hay or some alfalfa hay cubes they gotta work some for that. Some one else prob has more ideas.
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Snickerdoodlesmom

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Re: fattening foods
« Reply #2 on: February 06, 2013, 09:34:18 PM »

Thank you, but I'm not sure he'll eat the hay.
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GrayRodent

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Re: fattening foods
« Reply #3 on: February 06, 2013, 10:33:00 PM »

I am very sorry you are going through this. I really hate to say this but I think it really is time to get a dental exam.

He cannot afford to loose more weight because he does not have the fat reserves needed to survive a catastrophe and may get to a point where he cannot survive the anesthesia needed for an exam if he continues to loose weight. If the exam is inconclusive or reveals a treatable condition I recommend ordering calf manna from TJs and starting him out on three pellets a day and going up from there.

She sells it in small quantities. The calf manna is a rich pelleted diet for growing livestock and is very fattening. It also fragments easily so I picked out the longest ones I could find for my chin, Blue, who was loosing weight. I gave him about 3 pellets a day which is about all he could tolerate because he was sick but they can be given more once they are used to it. It does cause soft stool initially. It appeared to have an initial stabilizing effect on his weight trend but then infection set in and he went downhill very fast. At the time I thought it was relocation stress but it was malo that resulted in an abscess.

I also ordered critical care from TJ's but it was way too much. I'll never use all of it and will donate most of it to my local vet. (I have a horrible cold or I would have went today when my mom took her parrot in to get his nails trimmed which is why I'm up so late tonight!) I should have got a small quantity from the vet and it would have probably saved about 20 bucks. I strongly recommend you keep some on hand as well as a 10 cc feeding syringe and get that ASAP. If your chin goes anorexic without it the only thing you can do is grind pellets in a coffee grinder to make a syringe-loadable solution.

I have a lot I can say about the process of mixing and feeding if it comes to that having recently experienced that. I pray it does not.

I have tried steel cut oats in a coffee grinder mixed with water as a dietary supplement. It was very messy and time consuming to prepare. My chin liked it but only after it dried out. It had no effect on his weight although he ate about 1/2 tsp/ day. I also tried yogurt but he would not tolerate it and I wasn't going to syringe feed it. My new chinchilla, K'ulu, won't tolerate yogurt either but loves calf manna. I stopped giving it when Blue went anorexic and I had to feed him critical care so it wouldn't make him sicker.

I hope and pray everything works out well for you. Keep us posted.
« Last Edit: February 06, 2013, 10:42:43 PM by GrayRodent »
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Snickerdoodlesmom

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Re: fattening foods
« Reply #4 on: February 07, 2013, 08:16:52 PM »

I know this will sound silly, but my mom thinks I'm insane about the chinchilla. I showed her your post, but she thinks that I'm exaggerating. She won't let me take Snickerdoodle to the vet because she thinks I overreact every time something  goes wrong.
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GrayRodent

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Re: fattening foods
« Reply #5 on: February 07, 2013, 09:18:34 PM »

You were right to take him to the vet to get that initial exam. By doing that you have ruled out most other common causes of weight loss.
When I took Blue to the vet I got a regular exam first and she recommended a dental exam. I did have statistics, though, about his weight that I kept in a spreadsheet and was able to demonstrate intense weight loss and acceleration in the trend and had a history to compare over several months. Although I didn't bore the vet with my chart and the gory details of it (which I posted to the forum) I was able to tell her what was happening and got the right test and a rapid diagnosis.

The fact is you don't have that same kind of information and there are still unknowns.
I am hoping for the best and that your pet does not have malocclusion or dental issues and I know you are worried about it. I became very obsessive towards the end when I was convinced my chin was sick but I also had hard evidence that he was. I am hoping that you will find that there is no decrease in weight and you still could find that to be the case.

This is what I do with my chinchillas. Perhaps someone else has some better ideas but my solution is the scientific approach.

Measure out the same amount of food your chinchilla every morning providing just slightly more pellets than he normally eats in a day but an generous amount of hay and weigh him every day although once a week should suffice. Record how much he eats and drinks. For my chin I just use a number between 1 and 5 for his food accounting for my best guess on his hay and pellets. I have a ruler strapped to my water bottle and I record how many centimeters it changes each day which is very precise. (remember to measure at the meniscus). I also record his weight when I get up in the morning and hold him up and look at his feet and just briefly examine him for anything out of the ordinary. I also have a notes section on my data sheet for recording abnormalities like the time I found his toe was lacerated, or if he had a bad experience with the baby who startled him the other the night, and that kind of thing. And if you write down things you're obsessing over (like little noises or sneezes or such) you can look back and you might just find they are normal little things.

If you weigh and measure every day it's easy to get obsessive over normal weight and food consumption fluctuations so avoid that temptation if you do and go by week to week figures. I find that my chinchilla can go up or down 10 grams sometimes but typically it's around 2.

When you have several weeks of data you can see what normal fluctuations look like and that makes it easier to spot abnormalities.

Personally I go over the top because I think plotting stuff is cool. I have a logging thermometer so I'll put the high and low room temp and humidity as well although my hygrometer is highly suspect.
Either way keep a data sheet with the numbers and compare. A veterinarian will be likely concerned if there is a decrease of 20% in weight that is not unexplainable, or if there is a sharp decrease in food or water intake. I think that a slightly underweight chinchilla that is otherwise healthy can probably stand to loose some more weight but the margin of safety will not be as good as if he started out at a healthy weight because there are so little fat reserves to fall back on. If you see a sharp trend like 2-4 grams per day for a week with no let up that should be pretty solid evidence before it gets to 20% or if he flat stops eating that is definitely an emergency.

So start logging and don't worry so much. It really is not worth it to worry over these things and to worry about loosing what we treasure. Nothing we have is owed to us nor is it permanent. It is always better to take life as it comes and make the best of whatever comes our way.
« Last Edit: February 07, 2013, 09:41:13 PM by GrayRodent »
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Snickerdoodlesmom

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Re: fattening foods
« Reply #6 on: February 08, 2013, 08:38:04 AM »

Great idea! 2 questions though:
1. From where can I get a scale?
2. How do I restrain him to be weighed?
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GrayRodent

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Re: fattening foods
« Reply #7 on: February 08, 2013, 09:21:44 AM »

I use a digital food scale that weighs in grams. Mine has an accuracy of +/-2 grams. You can probably get one for less than $20.00 at Walmart but most stores that sell kitchen supplies usually have one.  I have a carry cage that I put him and set him on the scale in it. Then I take him out of the cage and weigh the cage and subtract the weight of the cage.

I could also the scale's tare function to do that automatically but sometimes it shuts off automatically when I am in the middle of the job so I just do it manually to prevent that.

I think most people weigh their chinchillas in a bowl placed on the scale and they can sit still long enough to get a reading. A more expensive scale may update is readings faster but mine is about once a second. Sometimes I have to give him a treat to sit still if I can''t get a reading.
« Last Edit: February 08, 2013, 09:26:13 AM by GrayRodent »
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