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[GrayRodent]

I have a tall (around 3'x3'x5') parrot cage that I am contemplating converting into a chinchilla cage. It is big enough to put two levels of shelving into it (making it 3 levels). The bars are very sturdy (for large parrots), but they are powder coated and scuffed from moving and storing. I suppose it is possible to paint it with something, not sure with what, though.

The floor is probably not good (same bar spacing) so I was thinking of covering it with 1/2"x1/2" galvanized steel mesh. I would wrap the mesh onto a wooden frame and elevate it slightly above the original floor to prevent it rubbing against the coated floor bars (using 1x2 firring strips)

For shelves I would use unfinished pine and screw them to the side of the cage with washers and steel screw-in studs and angle them down slightly to prevent accumulation of droppings on the shelves (maybe 3 degrees).

I was thinking of making a wide shelf with a wood box built on to it (bolted) for a hiding place and to have a solid floor to rest on.

I would also have a litter pan in one corner for getting the chinchilla in the habit of urinating in one area. (It will eventually go under the floor)

For cooling (if the air conditioning is not sufficient in the summer) I was thinking of using a small galvanized bucket (with lid) that can hold frozen water bottles that would be kept on the bottom of the cage. It will probably be wired to the side of the cage so it can't get knocked over.

If this is not a good idea I can build something from scratch.

[chinclub]

Sounds good. Most of the cages I have seen like that have pretty large spacing between the bars.  Those work fine for adult chinchillas, however, just weaned chins could slide right through.  Painting is no problem.  Just sand down the bars to remove any chips and then spray with spray paint. I have used Rustolium and the generic Wal-mart spray paints on my cages for years.  Your floor idea sounds fine.  You might consider wrapping the floor frame in some metal flashing.  Otherwise it will get urine on it and you will eventually have an odor.  You will find that the wire floor will also eventually get a buildup and will need to be taken out and hosed down.  Keep that in mind as you build with wood.  Shelves are usually no problem since chinchillas rarely urinate on these.  They can be cleaned with a piece of sand paper every now and then.

Also, remember that frozen water bottles are more of a "treat" than a heat remedy.  If the blood in the ears isn't cooled by the outside air and chinchilla will get heat stroke.  Laying on/against frozen bottles feels good but it doesn't cool the blood enough. 

[GrayRodent]

Thanks for your advice. I like the metal flashing idea.

I guess I'll be taking some careful temperature measurements ahead of time to determine if it's feasible. I expect room temperature can get up to around 80 in the summer during the hottest part of the day. I was thinking that having an ice cold metal wall to press on could bring down the chin's core temperature significantly if it got that hot.

[chinclub]

Unfortunately 80 is just too hot. 75 is too hot in many areas depending on your humidity. 

[GrayRodent]

It looks like we will be moving to the Huntsville, AL this spring. Right now this temperature estimate is speculative. I'll be taking measurements this summer to make sure we can maintain 70 degrees before I do anything. If not then maybe I'll go back to keeping rats. Thanks!