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[QTPie61282]

Just wanted to know if anyone had any plans, or layouts on how to build breeding runs??

Im having a 4 unit one built for me right now, but I was thinking about building some myself so I dont have to keep making this girl do it for me, then drive to CA to get them.  It would save her time and trouble too.

Or if you have thoughts of your own and little secrets youve come up with to alter the runs to make them work more flawlessly, let me know.
I would be so appreciative.
thanks guys!

[Jo Ann]

  Couple of questions:

1)  Where the male runs ... is that behind all the girl's cages OR over the back top of the girl's cages?
If it is the back top and the male's toes are exposed to the female, often times the female will bite off the toes of the male if they catch him sleeping.   
To make the "extended" run, just make a "U" shaped run and attach it to the back of the cages.

2)  Does the bottom part of the floor of the cage extend past the front of the cage about 3 or 4 inches?
If NOT, the poop from the cage above can fall into the feeder and/or cage below ... if you have a sick one, it can easily pass the illness from one chin to the other.   OR ... if one breaks or pops the top off of the water bottle, the chin below also gets soaked.

3)  Plan on paying a bunch for the wire, unless you purchase a large amount at one time. (as in a full pallet ... about $500 worth.

4) Check with any chinchilla ranchers you know or any big breeders you know ... see if they have any used cages they might be thinking about replacing and you can usually get a bargin.

5) Many of the larger breeders make their own cages and/or often make them to sell ... check with them and see where they might be going to a show near you.

6)  We use to make our own, but have found that with the wire and especially the trays, it cost us more to make them than it did to get some from a rancher that makes them.

7)  If you still want to make your own ...
   (a) invest in a good Drimmel, with plenty of extra grinding attachments to get rid of the sharp edges.
   (b) a good pair of crimpers
   (c) a pair of gloves to slow down the process of making blisters on your hands.
   (d) a couple of pairs of good clamps to hold the wire in place while you try to bend it.
   (e) a set of side cutters and learn to cut as close to the cross wire as possible, without breaking the sotter joint.
   (f ) a straight edge or ledge that you can use to evenly bend the wire ... this takes lots of practice.
   (g) someone that can give you a good deal on making the trays.
   (h) check out the prices and places to get the door closures (including the shipping and handling costs)
   (i ) find plenty of quiet time and patients ... you will need them.   

That's all I can think of for right now.   

  Jo Ann

[QTPie61282]

Thanks for the tips.

I was thinking the runs be in the back of the girls cages.  A friend of mine is making hers where the pan slides in and out of the cage, the pan is the bottom of the cage in a sense.  Ive seen runs where the cages are placed inside of a pan.  This is not how I was thinking of doing it.

My fiances friend is a general contractor and has a tool that cuts the wire right down so there is no need to use the drimmel, which is good bc i hated doing that with my last cage.

I was thinking of using the cage wire that comes rolled up in a coil.  Is this too flimsy?  I use it for any added features I need for other cages, like doors or what not.  I was hoping to use this stuff because its fairly cheap, I would just need to come up with some measurements to see how much I would need and just buy a bunch of rolls.

Ive looked around for runs from others.  I just think it would be easier for me to do them and cheaper and less work for myself and for the girl making them now for me.

How big should the holes generally be for the runs?

[Jo Ann]

    The pan has to be able to slide in and out of the cage or you could not stack the cages.  It would be much to dangerous to use a cage that is set inside the tray ... to many cages to lift at the same time, and to many chins that could get loose, all at the same time.
   What gage is the wire that comes in rolls?
   What size is the openings of the wire?
   You might want to take the measurements of the run, when you get it, and make a pattern from it to use for the runs you are going to make.
    I would suggest purchasing one roll of wire at first and only enough material to make one run ... once it is finished, you can decide if you want to continue making them yourself.
    Having the metal trays made is usually the biggest cost of your cages.
    By "holes" are you referring to the holes in the back of each cage that the male moves in and out of when visiting the females (called jump holes) ... OR are you referring to the actual size of the individual fronts of the cage, which is called a hole?

   Jo Ann
   
     

[QTPie61282]

Well the openings in the wire are only 1/2 by 1/2, pretty small.  Definitely no room for a young one to sneak through.  Im not sure of the gauge right now, its in the garage, so I will check tomorrow.

The pans I would do as a slide in and out.  Thats how my friend is making them and it makes complete sense I must say! 

When I said holes, I meant the Jump Holes.  I know you can buy some from custom cage websites and what not, but is there a general size you can buy, or do they come in different sizes.  Or if I made them myself, how big should it be?

[Jo Ann]

  Hi Jen,
    The jump holes are all the same size, as far as I know ... I have never seen any other than the standard size jump hole size.  The ones you can purchase are safe, reasonably priced and have the sliding doors made to fit them.  I would not attempt to make my own.  The ones they have now, have been made, after many years of study and testing for safety and durability.
    AND ... the collars you would have to buy for the females are made for the one size jump hole only.  If you have to have them special made to fit the holes you might make yourself would also be an added expense.
    Sounds like the wire you have is normally referred to as a "mesh"/"cloth" and generally not very strong.  If you are using it only for the runs, fronts and backs and have solid wood or metal as the top, bottom and sides of the cage, it might be OK.  I would use twice the crimps/clamps, when putting it together, and make sure you bend the exposed sides of the shelves and ramps of any cages to give them a little more strength.  Of course, in a run/holding cage, there are no shelves or ramps, so you would not have to worry when building the one-level runs and holding cages.
     Be sure to cover any exposed wood edges with metal, to assure the chin will not be able to chew it's way out.

  Jo Ann